I bought one of those 20$ Amazon chainsaw guides you use with a 2x6.. I have watched a few videos enough I think I understand a little, PLEASE CORRECT MY MISTAKES. 1. Find log. Freestanding dead wood or live, after felling, immediately cut to rough lengths and paint/seal cut ends. 2. Asap, mill to dimensions, at minimum, get off ground/and into shade. 3.? How long do I store milled green lumber and do I srore it unsealed? Just stack it in the barn? Idk Thanks fellas. I'm on a few forums, and this is by far the best group of brotherly folk.
The first thing I can tell you is there is a definite learning curve. The second is a chainsaw mill is hard work ; both on the operator and equipment. Just a couple side notes : 1) Turn your oiler up to max #2) Increase your oil in your mixture of fuel (not starting another oil thread here so pick a flavor and ratio you think is best for your conditions). As far as logs. Yes seal the ends , either latex paint or anchor seal works. Paint is obviously cheaper and most of us have some old stuff laying around. Drying time has a lot of variables. How was the wood when you cut it? Green or dead standing?? How thick are the boards? Drying conditions ? Inside or outside. Invest in a cheap moisture meter. Take your time and have fun. If you are out of shape now you won't be when you are finished.
Proper sticker placement/support, good air flow and ratchet straps are key. Seal ends only and leave the bark on live edge slabs. Top cover if drying outside. Lots of good YouTube videos regarding drying. Check out Kiln Drying Wood (Facebook page) for good info on low cost, home-made kilns if you decide to go that direction. I read an article that discouraged drying certain woods (walnut and oak) indoors like a basement. It said the chemical released during the drying process can be detrimental to metal such as tools hanging on the wall. I've never researched that, but just want to make you aware there was information out there. I can't vouch for the validity. I don't use a chainsaw mill. I learned if it's hard work for buzz-saw, it would've surely killed me.
Stickers , good point. I forgot that one. I have dried oak in basement without issue myself. Other than the strong smell for a while I have had no issues , at least that I know of up to this point. Good looking boards you have there HD.
I jumped into csm'ing with both feet first. Milled a ton of apple but wasn't experienced with what to do after planks are cut. Definitely search around and read about proper sticker stacking your wood. My apple didn't have enough top weight and ended up twisting, bowing, cupping, etc. I always read about a year per inch of thickness is a good baseline for drying times. Sawdust Man has a cool thread to follow and I'm sure he could give you great tips. Makin' sawdust << that's the thread. While he uses a band mill, there's still a lot of "stuff" to learn from it. See the nice flat/square foundation to which the stickered stack is on? Last thing you want to do is cut up a lot of boards and have them all not straight when they dry. If you're doing strictly chainsaw, one of my greatest tips is to place a leaf blower behind you to redirect saw fumes and dust. If you're milling in some ones yard, place a tarp down to catch the dust. It'll kill grass. Here's one of my first big projects, an ash tree that was in my yard: Can of whoop ash and a mill =
Well the stickers on the top right are not in line with the others. That's going to cost you bonus points. That's a great looking stack , whoever did that??
Tom done that....honest, I was on the ground passing up the boards... I didn't realize it had happened until they were putting the last concrete blocks in place.... and they mutinied at the idea of taking it apart & fixing it.... But you're right.... bunches of demerits for that.
Sure blame the other guy. LOL Maybe a couple demerits but at least you won't have to stay after class. Still looks great! Do you have any idea how many board feet you have there? It is an amazing stack of boards.
