They get inside everywhere. Drill, spray, then plug. I did have to let it drip a few days then wash and wax due to the overspray.
This stuff doesn't dry hard. Does fluid film? I have to wash it off the do if they decide to get under my truck.
This looks similar to what I suggested. Our local NAPA's have them on the shelf and the box had fluidfilm artwork and pictures. I'm sure they don't make it. My paint stirrer is used like a crappy spatula and once it's inside the bottle I shake it off a scrape the neck on the way out. Very crude operation at best. This just came to mind, I wonder if a suction type thing would work? I have 2 of those, looks like a grease gun with no lever, just a pull rod and a length of poly tubing.
No, FF stays soft. Woolwax stays a bit thicker than I’ve experienced rattle can FF. People say to drive down a dusty road to help thicken FF. I haven’t done that.
I use FF inside frame rails with wand, door panels, body panels, cab corners, tail gait, and hoods every other year or so. I now use PB Blaster Surface Shield underneath in high spray areas yearly. Tests I have seen on-line, and my personal experience have found that the PB Blaster SS is more durable. That being said, for years I only used FF underneath. After awhile it builds up a layer of road dust, FF, road dust, FF, etc. etc that is also pretty durable.. Best thing to do is apply it and drive right away down a dry dirt road. Our trucks are older, and are pretty much rust free, which saying a lot around here with all the road salt. The trucks that are left to rot look pretty bad after 10 years, or less in some cases. One guy I know said that he has a friend who took his truck through the wash weekly in the winter months and it rusted a lot faster than his unwashed vehicles. He speculated that the high water pressure pushed salty water in all the body cracks where it sits doing its damage. The only time mine are washed is when it rains and in the spring, summer, or fall when they get muddy. My wife insists that I run her GX460 through the wash when she thinks it looks “dirty,” which is a lot more often than I like, but the alternative is , and her not being as happy.
Is just a regular 'pancake' compressor sufficient for applying FF or the like when not using the rattle cans?
I used to have my truck sprayed with CP-90 from a company called carwell. It is much thinner than FF or WW and really seeps into cracks, pinch welds and whatnot. Once I figured out I could do it way cheaper I bought the equipment and did it myself. 5 gallon bucket lasted about 5 seasons doing two vehicles. I’ve since switched to using wool wax as the carwell product got a lot more expensive. Contrary to what some are saying I don’t find the WW to be messy to apply at all, especially compared to the carwell product. The WW is thick, sticks where you put it and doesn’t really aerosolize like the thinner product I was using. I did buy the nice spray gun, wands and bottles from kellsport.com. I have a 07 tacoma which are notorious for rotten frames and am driving in Buffalo. So far so good. I actually need to spray it down as soon as it’s back from the shop. Steering rack is getting replaced. Thought about doing it myself but having no power or concrete in the new garage yet I decided against it. I have a 5 gallon pail with pump on it and just pump out the thick WW. I do leave it inside the night before I coat if it’s cold out. Just wish I would if started from new. Think I went the first three years without coating. Once that rust starts nothing will stop it. I guess blasting and painting but you get the drift. I know this is something everyone does right before winter. I can’t remember where I read it but I saw something a while back that said spraying in the summer heat was actually more beneficial as the product will thin out and creep into all the nooks and crannies. Then maybe a thin coat right before winter. What do you guys think? Softwood I used to use a pancake with the thinner carwell product and it worked fine. I’m thinking it would struggle with the thicker WW or FF but I haven’t tried.
Yes, but it requires patience just as you would need for any small volume compressor in a "higher volume" use. Iirc I run at about 60psi, it's the amount - volume of air used that will slow you down.
not really unless you want to wait for it to build pressure a lot. I use corrosion X HD which is similar to FF and my oil less kobalt compressor (20 gal) is anemic for trying to spray it on. I tried it once and won't again unless it's all I have. Instead I use my 4 gallon senco which is 100% duty cycle and hardly deal with waiting at all. I have never used bulk fluid film, just cans. My corrosion x was bulk
What kind of 'oil' is he spraying it with? I just found a somewhat local Mennonite shop that sprays vehicles with https://www.beaconlubricants.com/uploads/products/data_sheets/182105_beacon-signal-film-150-tds.pdf. I've never heard of the product, he claims its the bees knees. Think he said it's $70 for the whole vehicle or he'd charge $40-50 for just the undercarriage/frame.
It seems to change...I think its whatever he can get a good deal on that year...but from what I've seen its pretty much what you have linked to there...oil with a tackifier additive. (bar oil?! ...only half kidding )
just buy a quart of essential peppermint oil and mix into your rustproofing. I squirt it around the camper several times a year. It doesn't last too long the way I do it but with a carrier like rustproofing it may last much longer.
