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17 horse Kohler gas engine troubles.

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Cold Trigger Finger, Sep 12, 2021.

  1. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter

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    QUOTE="Cold Trigger Finger, post: 1369544, member: 4825"]That's how I have it hooked up.
    I set the gap at 20 thousands . Cleaned the points contacts with a dollar bill.
    Still no spark at the plugs. :faint::hair:[/QUOTE]
    Do you have power into the+ of the coil. If yes do you have pulse out the - side?
     
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  2. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    Take off of the coil the wire going to the points. Take another wire and touch the negative post on the coil and with the other end tap a grounded surface. Every tap should make the coil spark. If it does then the point end is where the trouble is. Still no spark then verify +12v is at the positive post. A shorted condenser will also kill the spark so try it with that disconnected also.
    Clear as mud, best of luck.
     
  3. Cold Trigger Finger

    Cold Trigger Finger

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    Do you have power into the+ of the coil. If yes do you have pulse out the - side?[/QUOTE]
    I don't know how to find that out without grabbin a wire with my fingers.
    I will see if I can get a reading with my AMM . If I can find it.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2022
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  4. Cold Trigger Finger

    Cold Trigger Finger

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    Ok. I take it I need the key in the On or Start position for this. ?
    Yesterday I had troubles with corroded terminals on the battery end .
    I have an analog multi meter , if I can find it. I will check to be sure I have at least 12 volts coming to the switch.
     
  5. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    Yes key on. Analog meter set on volts put the red lead on 12 volts and the black lead on the points.
    When cranking the needle should fluctuate.
    If it does nothing points are not grounding. If it just keeps showing 12 volts points are shorted.
    When you set the points did you have the timing marks aligned, ie the peak or highest point of the cam, maximum opening when turned by hand ?
     
  6. J bird

    J bird

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    Not to further confuse you but you may be better with a 12 volt test light for the low voltage testing. It’s a little clearer than a meter.

    Premium LED Bulb Automotive Circuit Tester, 6-24V Test Light with 135 Inch PU Extended Spring Wire, Sharp Hard Steel Probe Vehicle Circuits Low DC Voltage Light Tester

    I am copying a link to Amazon and I hope it works
     
  7. Cold Trigger Finger

    Cold Trigger Finger

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    When I set the points, I barred the engine over till the points were as open as they could be.
    The rod was up as high as it could go. But not started back down.
    I checked the battery with my multi meter . It has more than 12 volts.
     
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  8. Cold Trigger Finger

    Cold Trigger Finger

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    I checked to make sure it wasn't the ignition switch . Still nuthin. Checked other things . Still no spark at the plugs.
    I pulled both the coil and condenser. I'm going to see if the shop where I bought them can test them tomorrow when I go to Fairbanks.
     
  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    You can test yourself, as mentioned above...if the points have continuity through them when closed, and not when they aren't, then they are working... likewise on the coil, if it has 12v to it, ground the other side, it should spark once every time you take the ground wire on n off. If you suspect the coil wire bad, substitute a piece of regular wire for the test...just don't hold it, the insulation is not good enough to hold back 50k volts if you have the gap to ground a lil too wide.
    And you can just leave the condenser off to test it...if everything works with it off, then put it back on and try it...the condenser only makes the points last longer, that's it.
     
  10. Cold Trigger Finger

    Cold Trigger Finger

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    Things are beginning to make a little more sense. I can mostly understand the above post.
    From what I understand, both plugs are supposed to fire at the same time with this engine. Just that 1 cylinder gets spark when the piston is at the bottom , then the next time when it's at the top of it's stroke.
    Without knowing that. I couldn't make heads or tails of the (Sparks Recycling) comments earlier in this thread.
    Not at all sure I wanted to learn all this. But, I have to make lumber. So I have to get this running to do so.
    I very much appreciate all the help you all have given.
    One lesson I've learned too, even if I have a mechanic work on something for me. TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES BEFORE IT GETS TAKEN APART !!!
    IMG_20220519_172829793.jpg
     
  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Correct, each plug fires, but it only matters on the cylinder that is at TDC (top dead center) with both valves closed...the spark on the other cylinder is just "wasted"/irrelevant...lots of small engines do this.

    So in the above picture, if you turn the key on, make sure the engine is at a point where the points are open, then take a piece of wire and hook one end to a ground point on the engine, and tap the other end to the - side of the coil (red wire)...each time you do this the plugs should spark...if they do then the points need attention of some sort. Wouldn't hurt to take the red wire off at the coil and then hook your AMM to the red wire to check continuity to ground...when you crank the engine over the meter should swing from infinity to low resistance to ground (continuity) as the points open n close.
    Make sure the wire is attached to the points correctly...if the insulator washer is put in the wrong spot, the wire will be grounded all the time, rather than just through the points while they are closed...I've seen this lil boo boo done more than once. Engine makes very little noise this way...usually more noises coming from the operator (mostly in the form of expletives!)
    :whistle: :hair: :rofl: :lol:
     
  12. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    I’m glad you :BrianK: are helping out.. My knowledge is soo limited on points and condensers
     
  13. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Hey, who you callin :BrianK:...I think we about the same age :p
    I only have points experience due to dealing with old small engines on the farm, then also on some older bikes when I first started at the bike shop in '88.
     
  14. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    :DHad them on an 86 boat motor v8 switched to EFI as it was hard to keep points in boat hull. I also hated working head down in a I/O Bayliner..
     
  15. amateur cutter

    amateur cutter

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    Yeah well points were still a thing when I was in auto class in school.:BrianK:
     
  16. Flamestead

    Flamestead

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  17. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    I must be a dinosaur...... I'm still running points in about a dozen engines !!
    Anyone ever set points on a diesel? Yep its a thing.
     
  18. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Never heard of it...is this a pony motor?
    Or maybe its a multifuel that you start on gas?
     
  19. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    Bingo !! both actually but I wasn't counting the pony.
     
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  20. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Cool...is this a tractor, or a power unit or something?
     
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