Well this is another 372xp x-torq. Frozen starter rope. Took cover off, rope worked fine. Took muffler off and saw this: And I knew something bad happened. Cylinder had the front right bolt super loose like almost falling out. Missing muffler gasket. Combustion chamber of cylinder totally destroyed. Piston destroyed. Connecting rod bearing mangled and rattling around. I think a chunk of the needle bearing went for a ride. To rebuild needs a new crankshaft, new bearings, new p/c, new gaskets, carb rebuild kit. I split the case, parted out the saw into bags again, but at least this one the case is still intact. That leaves me with one 372xp (non x-torq) to look at, two 242s, and one 346. Of the 372xp xt I looked at: One awaiting a p/c and carb rebuild. Should be a pretty quick repair. One is a donor with holes in the case. Case is shot. This one above which can be rebuilt from the bottom up but probably won't be for now. Another one leaking through the case needs to be split. Not sure if it needs bearings. So far I've fixed one 372xp non x-torq and one x-torq which are back in service, the second of which will have its first day back tomorrow.
When saws don’t get cleaned, or get pm, you don’t find the loose, dirty and broken stuff. It’s what rainy or snow days are for.
Wow the oem crankshaft kit is $375 - includes shaft, bearings, connecting rod bearing, clutch, crankshaft sleeve, and tiny o-ring........ But man that's expensive. I see a Hyway crankshaft for $75. Hm.
Yah. Well, buddy decided to go with AM parts and experimentate and see what happens so experimentate I will. Hyway crank, meteor piston/cylinder. Will post progress.
The Hyway brand cranks I’ve seen were “ok.” I have not tried one yet. I’ve tried AM Stihl 1127 cranks… meh. They don’t have the tolerance on the big end but we haven’t killed it yet. It doesn’t get a lot of use and is pig rich at 12,000 rpms. Junker brush saw. Used oem can sometimes be a gamble unless the seller understands needle bearings and the possibility of a spun main ruining the interference fit.
Got this saw up and running with the Meteor piston and cylinder. Here's the list of stuff I did to it: 1 New piston, rings, wrist pin, wrist clips 2 New cylinder, cylinder gasket, and muffler gasket 3 Plugged decomp 4 New air filter (aftermarket) 5 New Oregon spark plug (came with Piston/Cylinder kit) 6 New 3/8" 7-tooth OEM rim sprocket 7 Idled for an entire tank to break in 8 OEM carb rebuild kit 9 Carb adjustment 10 New fuel filter (oem husky) 11 Took intake manifold from donor saw as this one was ripped (oem) 12 Filled fuel with VP 50:1 and filled bar oil 13 Lubed clutch needle bearing w/ lithium grease 14 Loctite on chain brake cover, handlebar, muffler, and cylinder screws. 2nd pic shows some damage I think as a result of someone using a long coarse threaded screw there instead of a shorter one. Will do some test cuts and some carb adjustments tomorrow. Short video of it running:
Oh just to break it in a little. It's raining and I didn't quite finish running the whole tank. Probably idled about 15 minutes or so with a few revs here and there. I had idled it and ran it but then it died and wouldn't restart. Plugged the decomp and it ran again no problem which was weird. How do you break in a new cylinder and piston?
I usually fill with 25;1 full synthetic aspen or tru fuel fire it up give it a minute or so to warm up then cut some small rounds varying the speed from mid to high shut off and check fasteners then run it normally never had a problem two strokes really do not like idling they are fan cooled engines and you can make to much heat , also you get improper scavenging at idle which can lead to fouling plug and carbon build up not as much of a problem with todays oils JB
I mix @ 32:1 start it warm it up and run it like I use it. I always used mix oil on assembly so I never mixed heavier than what I normally run.
Similar to those guys. I go through a couple heat cycles and listen for anything off. Then I rough tune it (somewhat rich, usually) and cut wood. After a bit I’ll tune it again and run it normally.
Got a text from my tree service buddy. He said he used the first piston/cylinder rebuild saw and gave me the two thumbs up. The other saw (orig 372xp non xt) also is running well. Hopefully they run for a long while. Knock on wood.
Nice thanks for the info. I will run the saw tomorrow, do some test cuts, and then re-tune then. I slathered Stihl Ultra all over the inside of the cylinder walls, the piston, rings, wrist pin, connecting rod bearings.....so I guess that would be like mixing the fuel rich.......except I used the premixed stuff.
Ok I got so many 372xp xt that I posted on the wrong thread. The saw with the catastrophic crankshaft connecting rod bearing failure..........is not the saw I just fixed lmfao. Catastrophic is saw #4 and this is saw #3. I can see how this gets confusing.....fast hahahahaha. Oops. This saw just had a scored piston and cylinder.....so nothing too crazy.