My chain regularly pops off. Me or the saw at fault?

I’ve always pulled up on the bar when tightening.
Scott’s reasoning for pulling down while tightening is he cuts up a lot with the top of the bar.
When pulling up on the bar you can see more slack appear in the chain.
The #1 thing I’ve seen over the years with folks throwing chains is they don’t stop cutting to tighten up the chain. They start cutting, chain starts to dull, chain gets slack in it, they keep cutting and boom, chain jumps, drivers mashed, work stops to frig with trying to get mashed drivers to run through bar groove.
Keep a chainsaw tool in your pocket or pouch on chaps and stop cutting to tighten the dang chain.. sheesh it only takes 2 minutes

 

^^^^^This!

Did you change the captive nuts so that you could put outer spikes on the clutch cover?

 

Just because it doesn’t happen to you, doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen, and could be what’s happening to the original poster. Yes, I would see it over-tensioning if it slipped up, but who dogs in and pries up (by pushing down on the gas tank handle)? When you do dog in and pull up (on the gas tank handle), your chances of this slip is greater than the force of you simply making an up cut without using dogs.

The amount of accuracy that movement changes your sight lines… are you aiming for chopsticks sticking in the ground?

I don’t mean to get sidetracked here, the issue is throwing chain frequently. For that issue, in my experience, is a loose chain. And since I’ve communicated that, I’ll move on.

 

I don't often dog in and push down, but when I do it's real hard(said in my best meme voice) . I think of kickback, particularly when boring hammering the bar down and I have seen that happen. I think if your bar nuts are tight neither picking the bar up or letting it hang down on the bar nuts should be a problem, it seems we agree on that.
I think keeping a sharp chain also would help avoid the bar moving either up or down, always nice to have a fresh properly filed chain.

As far as the sights go, it's the only reason I've been able to come up with that may be negatively effected by tightening while the bar is resting on the bar nuts.
But yes, a few degrees can throw off my intended fall on the west coast(of Michigan) trees I'm dropping, when you're working on a big fifty footer, you need all the control and accuracy you can get lol.

Hopefully the OP will respond back, and let us know what he came up with, maybe with some pictures.

 

On the chain…less than ten.
On the saw/sprocket/bar…maybe 30.
I flip the bar every now and then.
I hold bar tip up when tightening, and I do check my tension. Obviously not enough.

I’ve had recurring issues of this nature. Aside from throwing chains, I had a problem with drive links getting burrs so the chain wouldn’t spin.

Haven’t taken a closer look at the sprocket yet. Just put the saw back in it’s spot and took care of some other chores. Will do that tomorrow or Friday and post pics.

 

That and/or a slight bend in the bar.

 

Check the sprocket for grooves, change if needed. If the chain is getting burrs on it without throwing the chain and there is damage on many of the drive links then you may have a bad sprocket, if the sprocket is good, most likely you the sprocket and the chain are not the same side. Pretty sure they come stock with a 325 chain/sprocket, did you accidentally put a 3/8 chain on when you replaced it?
Another thing that can cause problems is a bad tip on the bar, or a bent crank .
In the new video that The Wood Wolverine put in his previous post(the stihl video), at 6:33 0r so they show that a slightly loose chain is okay. While it may be okay for an experienced cutter I would recommend tightening it just as they show earlier on(@5:10 in the video) for a cold chain(hold the bar up if you prefer, I don't). When I'm cutting lots of smaller trees/whips, or cutting limbs/trees that have been damaged in a storm, I tighten my chain tight enough that it's hard to pull down as much as they show on the cold chain in the video after my chain is warm, I don't want it loose on the bar at all. If the chain sings a bit on the bar when it's cold, that's fine, if it does so when it's warm it's too tight.
This video.

 

Just an update. I decided to start with the easiest fix: tighten clutch cover nuts. Used the saw to take down that ash in my other post (critique my hinge), then bucked it all up. I used it for something else, though I forget. Just trying to say that I used it more than I did the last time I used it to take down a small cherry (and the chain was thrown).

Overall, went smoothly. I kept checking chain tension from time to time and it was holding in well. I have a few more logs to buck, so will keep using it. But so far the simplest fix seems to have worked.

 

Same happened with my 450 e xtorq

 

I did not read this whole thread but check and see that the studs in the case are fully installed. Either a stud installer or double nut them and check that they are fully seated.
I say this because I have a MS391 that had oiling issues , it pumped oil but never really got to the chain. Come to find out the studs that thread in had worked their way out and the bar wasn't fully seated against the case so the oil just ran out instead of getting to the bar.
One of the pictures shows the studs at different lengths.

 

Seems like something is making it drag off of the clutch idk i had a similar problem with my husquvarna and it drove me insane couldnt figure it out for the life of me