Thoughts on a splitter vent issue?

Swisher's instructions as well as a call in say to check cold and the hash marks on the dipstick are set as such. The cylinder is always retracted when not in use so always check that way. When checked cold as per their instructions, the results are as I posted above. When screwed in, the dipstick shows full but not overfull. When just set in the hole, it shows down between the hash marks.

 

Was wondering if the hot level is actually that high to where it’s overflowing or if it’s full of air.

 

I'm really not sure BUT what confuses me is it leaks when towing. To me, that means that the diaphram isn't doing its job at keeping low pressure fluid contact in check.

 

Diaphragm...in the cap? That cap probably only has filter media in it...

 

There is a plastic diaphragm in there. No media.

 

Hmm...that one's different than the ones I've bro...err, I mean torn apart

 

Yeah, it's a piece of plastic crap. The whole cap, not just the vent. I think I'm going to get a metal Buyers unit too. It's cheap so why not. I know the type you're talking about too. Those would be an improvement over what I have.

 

That's why I asked about whether the dipstick should be screwed in or not when checking the fluid level.

 

Thanks for all the thoughts guys. I think the issue is two fold. I think having the res at the full mark is too high regardless of what the dipstick says. I also think the baffle/diaphragm in the venting cap is a toy. I find it odd that Swisher, after building such an American made tank of a splitter, would cheap out on what is likely a 99 cent Chinese vent cap.

So, last night I ordered a nice Buyers vent cap. Today I'll stop by HD and grab a nipple and coupler and will install and paint. If this solution doesn't cure my issue, I'll remove a quart or so of fluid and see how that goes.

 

I installed a breather tank with a larger hose going to it mounted above the tank on my rugged split. One of the big problems was the oil return is right below where the vent is located and with no baffles in the tank the turbulence of the oil on the return stroke actually causes the oil level to raise up directly below the vent. The tank is like what you would use on a race car and connect to the valve cover to vent that crankcase.
Somewhere I have a picture and will try to find it. If I can I will post it.

 

Here you go.
This has worked absolutely perfect for me. Does not leak a drop and not a drop out of the drain valve that is installed in it. I have passed this along to other members here that had the same issues and the end result for them was the same.

 

WOW, that sir is a work of art! I too wondered if the return location on mine combined with a lack of internal baffle caused part of my issue. Anyways, great work!

 

Thanks system , Just another day for me but your compliments are appreciated.

On the return stroke is when the oil has the most turbulence in the tank , there is a larger amount of oil going back to the tank when cylinder is coming back because on the back-side the entire tube of the cylinder is full and there is no rod displacing area for the oil. It is kind of poor engineering when they built mine , if they located the fill on the other side of the tank as far away from the return as possible it would probably help if not cure the issue.

You can do the same in a little less elaborate way with a street "L" fitting and a hose barb up to a tank. I had built a couple tanks for race cars and had the braided hose and hose ends in the shop from past projects so that's why I went that route. An inexpensive plastic tank is available from a place like Summit Racing or even on ebay.

Most important is it worked and has not been an issue since.

Hope this helps.

Just a couple more things to put in back of your mind.
1) install an inexpensive hour meter , great to have for tracking service intervals
2) Get a piece of magnetic sign material like used for truck lettering and wrap the oil filter , this helps trap magnetic particles in the hydraulic system. ( you can see my filter wrapped just under the bottom of the tank )

 

All excellent info. I do have an hour meter installed which I did at the time of purchase. It shows RPM as well so I can adjust as needed. I have an old truck lettering sign that I could repurpose to the hydro filter. Good idea there...

 

Got my extension and new breather installed. I also dissected the old vent cap / dipstick combo. As Brenn suspected, there was no diaphragm inside but rather a very small amount of filter media and below that a section of criss cross plastic to block potential splashing.... which doesn't work. Anyways, it's 90 this week so I won't be testing for a while. Will see what happens this fall...

 

That should work , I was debating on that as well.
Keep us posted.

 

That ought to be a big improvement...if by some chance it still gives you the finger, it will now be easy to add (2) 1" x 1.5 or 2" bushings into each end of a 1.5 or 2" coupling (I'd go 2") so it can be screwed on in place under the breather...that will fix its little red wagon...and if it doesn't, then a proper oil separator like buzz posted would be about your only other option...but this "hillbilly separator" worked on my brothers splittah after the extension didn't totally fix it.

 

System you now have an extension/breather in place; how do you check hydraulic fluid level without a dipstick?

 

You really don't need a dipstick.
It's not like engine oil. Unless you have a leak and loosing fluid it doesn't go anywhere. Unlike engine oil that actually burns a little under normal conditions.
Worst case just pull out the extension , check the level with the original plug and put the extension back in.

My old splitter ran for 10 years and I don't think I ever checked the oil level with the exception of when I did an actual fluid and filter change.
Never an issue what so ever.

 

I won't really. I could easily thread out the extension and check it with the old dipstick but likely won't for years to come. Fluid level never really changes. It's not like a car with oil. On past splitters, the only time I ever checked or added a little fluid was during the also rare filter change.