How long to you go before you turn a bar over?

Thanks.. I was wondering what to look for.

 

Now THAT is one used bar.
Comments from the FHC peanut gallery ?

 

Woodwidow pointed out that I got this one on upside down the first time!

 

In order to turn a bar over, you'd need to drink all the liquor first.



Oops, wrong kind of bar.

I think the answer is a lot sooner than I've been doing it.

I think I need to swap a new bar into the 029 super. Even with a freshly sharpened chain, it wants to cut at an angle.

 

I never flip mine.

 

Flip Greg. It'll last longer.

BTW--bars have two equal sides ( here at least ).

 

I am starting to gather that. I guess I can just flip it whenever the bar comes off, and then it is not something new I need to think about.

 

I usually flip it over every time I change the chain out. And like someone said, if it has burrs on the sides I file them

 

I flip mine whenever the chain needs sharpened or replaced.

 

I flip mine whenever I remember to .

 

I used to flip every time i sharpened the chain. Lots of times i "field" sharpen on the tailboard of the PU and dont flip it then. When i pull the bar and chain off and use the vise to sharpen then it gets flipped. Im not religious about cleaning schmutz when bar is off and cant say ive noticed any oiling issues. Have you adjusted the oiler on your 362? Screw on saw bottom. Some guys turn it all the way up.

 

Turned up to 11 on every saw. Not sure why that screw even turns left.

 

Some saws will leave a lot of oil flinging off the end of the bar if you crank them up to 11. My dolkita with a 20" bar was set way too high when I got it and would spray oil from the bar while cutting. I turned it down a bit and it doesn't make a mess anymore. On pro saws, of you use a shorter bar option, and the saw can use a much longer bar, you'll see this. To run the longer bars, you need to turn the oiler up.

 

I once watched a very experienced tree climber/trimmer/arborist cutting some treated post to points on one end. Couldn’t figure out why his saw wouldn’t cut. Stopped several times and had the saw completely apart. He was having a really bad day. Finally got fed up tossed the saw in the work truck, said screw it and went and sat down.

I grabbed the saw, took the bar and chain off, flipped the chain around the correct way, fired it up and cut posts for two hours with the same saw.

 

I am not sure that my oil flow is adjustable as it comes stock on the 362. Actually, I think I am going to post a new thread on that subject. There does not seem to be a screw on the bottom. I think it's an optional feature, I would have to add, but I suspect that I need to add the option.

 

Im not 100% sure but i believe an adjustable oiler is a standard feature on pro model Stihl saws. Had to satisfy my own curiousity...just went downstairs and checked. My 261, 361 and 460 all have them. Its on the underside and recessed into the housing. Orientation arrows for more or less oils.

 

Let’s just say I needed to run the chain really tight. I did flip it every other time. That’s the last time I’ll run a Stens bar. I’ll stick with the Oregon from now on.

 

I see the Orientation arrows, but no screw. Is the screw right by the arrows?

 

It's down in the hole...hard to see...just stick a small/mediun sized flat blade screwdriver down in there...it should drop into the slot...

 

I found it. That little bugger was hard to see, and not where I expected to find it. It looks like it only turns about a half a turn all total and it was in the middle, I turned it up all of the way, and now I do get some oil flying off if the end of the bar. Since I am running a 25 inch bar, I suspect I should run it on the high side. At least I can tell I am getting more oil now.

Thank you.