Ok, I think I understand all this, not sure about the using a different set screw hole as the bushing doesn't seen to have a place for both to get rotated 180. I found some 1/4 key stock and am dry fitting. Forgive my ignorance here but I dont see how this key can engage the bushing. Maybe the key I need is not a standard square key? The groove in the bushing that the key engages is not square shaped, it appears to be like a pyramid.
I’m thinking that I’d personally replace it. It looks like your worn on that one edge pretty bad. Should be uniform eccentric. the last picture looks to be off...
I'm thinking in the last picture you are seeing a shadow. The groove in the bushing for the key is/was never square IMO. I'll call the manufacturer tomorrow. Problem is last time I talked to them they did not recognize the serial number of the machine. Probably just buy a new bushing and key from them and get a couple of chipper knives while I'm at it. I'm assuming that the groove for the key is at the 6 o'clock position in the photo below, unlike the diagram above. Will that groove open up to 1/4 inch when I torque the set screws?
This is what I was thinking was your keyway (blue line) honestly, probably gonna be easier to replace the whole thing rather than clean up this keyway proper like...not quite sure why the keyway is not obvious when looking at the end of the coupler...weird. It should look exactly like this one. ^ ^ ^ NEW OLD STOCK! DODGE 1-3/16" TAPER LOCK BUSHING 1610-1-3/16 117160 | eBay The empty hole directly opposite your key in the below pic is your jack hole...you remove both screws, then thread one into the empty hole to jack the coupler free of the cutter wheel...they should have been locked tightly together. I bet things were not properly tight to begin with...otherwise you would have not gotten it apart without using the jack hole, or totally destroying things...explains why the key sheared off too. The NOS taperlocks I saw on ebay looked to be fairly inexpensive (in case one from the OEM one is too spendy)
No, it will close. The inside of the cutter wheel is tapered to match the outside of the taperlock coupler...when you thread the jack screws in the two opposing holes, the coupler gets drawn into the cutter wheel as you tighten the screws, and since you are pulling into that tapered hole, the gap will close up as the TL clamps tightly onto the shaft and key. Now if you look at that empty hole 90* away from the two we just discussed, (here, in about the 6:30-7:00 position) you will notice the coupler side has threads, but the cutter wheel side of the hole doesn't. Also, the half of the hole on the cutter wheel side is not drilled through...so basically a blind hole. So what happens when you thread a screw into that empty 3rd hole, the screw bottoms out on the blind bottom of the cutter wheel side of the hole, but that half is not threaded, so the screw can continue to be turned against the bottom...but, since the coupler half of that hole is threaded, the coupler gets pushed out as you turn the screw...as the coupler comes out of the tapered hole in the cutter, that gaps opens back up and everything should be loose and easily removed from the shaft...its a simple but genius design...I really like using taperlock couplers whenever I can...they are pretty common way to attach pulleys and sprockets to a shaft on industrial equipment...the pulley or sprocket is made special to accept the taperlock coupler just as your cutter wheel is. Here is a good pic of the inside of a taperlock pulley...it shows the threaded and unthreaded/blind holes really well. When assembling things, the smooth bore (and blind) holes in the taperlock coupler mate with the threaded holes in the pulley...and vise versa, the threaded hole in the coupler mates up with the smooth bore (blind) of the pulley, which remains unused until you need to force things back apart. Hopefully this is making some kind of sense to someone other than me...
Per the tech at Mackissic, the original bushing had an integral key, so it appears that gouge that you marked with blue is what's left of the key after it sheared off. Makes sense now. Parts are ordered. Thanks again for all your help.
Parts came Friday. Notice anything about the new bushing? Wrong size. Someone wrote the right part number on the wrong box. They are sending the correct one post haste. It looks like that old knife has been sharpened quite a few times too.
First time I’ve seen an integral key on a taper lock also. Getting the wrong part sucks but sounds like you’re well on your way.
The correct bushing finally arrived. The chipper is all back together and working well got prolly a couple yards worth of chips in an hour or so.
That machine must work much better than most of the small ones out there...I never used one until my FIL decided to sell his and wanted me to get it running again for him...he had not used it enough to even burn the paint off the exhaust...anyways, I run a few sticks through it and shut it down, was done screwing with it before I could have even filled a fast food size bag with chips. This was a 8hp machine too...I hear the 5hp ones are generally even crappier...I see why they are all over CL for cheap.
I wouldn't want to use it every day but it does the job, i like the large hammermill chamber a lot. I think it's better than most homeowner units but I wouldn't pay the $2k for a new one, I gave $400 for it 10 years ago.
Alrighty...new problem. I ran the chipper some more and lost power transfer to the shaft because the set screw in the drive pulley came loose. There are two spots on the pulley for a set screw. One screws directly onto the key and another at 90 degrees from that one. Do I need both? I ran a magnet in the chips and only found one set screw and the key so I don't know if I'm missing another set screw or if there was only ever one installed, do you normally have two set screws on a pulley? The key and the keyway in the shaft and pulley appear to be OK despite the pulley coming loose as I can reassemble them with good fit, just not sure about using two set screws or not?
You don't absolutely HAVE to use both set screws, but its a real good idea...things tend to move around without them both there, and tight. Set screws are another common hardware item. So I take it the key worked its way out?
Yeah, I'm guessing, I found the key in the pile of chips when things stopped turning. I picked up some new set screws this am, was just unsure about installing one directly onto the shaft? Loctite a good idea or no?
Normally you don't need loctite, but some blue wouldn't hurt, especially if it does it again...but chances are with both screws tight, it will be fine.
