I have moved some really heavy stuff with it over the years, tractor is a 2006 Model, right side has gone out twice, left side once. I have worked it hard.
My neighbor has a 3130 of the same vintage and has the same issue. He is meticulous at maintenance but uses it hard.
Any chance that you could do a series of pics as you repair this ? I’ve got an 03 3130 . It has a small leak in the seal where the axle pivots to turn . I figure ,while I’m that far in , the bearings might as well be replaced . Also , what were the symptoms of the failure ,and did it come on gradually , or just fail fairly fast ? Thanks for sharing what you have .
Basic happened quickly. Seal went out on the wheel, oil runs down time and tire. Tire has lot of play in it. Sounds like your king pin seal, it is about $65. I'll try to get some pics. I do know you need some GOOD lock ring pliers, big size.
Thanks ! I actually have the work shop manual for the L3130 . Just wanting to get some info from those with experience in such things . Also : just watched the videos . It ain't a saw , but it looks fairly straight forward . And , as a bonus , I can use hammers !
Jeff, checked the books today. Can't get a spherical bearing for those sizes. They are too wide for your housing. It's too bad, The 6207 has a static load rating of 4,180 lbf, where an equivalent spherical has a static load rating of 16,500 lbf 6208 has a load rating of 5,620 lbf, and a comparable spherical has a load rating of 18,300 lbf. Granted a spherical has a much lower speed rating, but I can't believe that your tractor wheel bearing is running in excess of 7500 RPM. Cant remember what the load rating on a 6300 series was, but they wouldn't fit either, so I didn't write the info down Sorry for the bad news I'll talk to the boss and see what he might suggest. Not sure it will change anything, but he does own the company for a reason.
How loose are we talking? Green loctite is good for about .003”. Wheel bearings don’t turn fast on a tractor so the misalignment may be tolerable. Doing nothing is guaranteed to a future failure since wear of a bearing race comes from things shifting around that should not, and these always get worse with loose fits. Changing bearing types is interesting but I’m not aware of much that still fits within the envelope of a standard deep groove ball bearing. It wouldn’t be crazy to upgrade to a heavier ISO, EP grade grease to reduce the overload damage. Or if it’s lubed by the common hydraulic oil, use the synthetic grade. David
Yep . In the first portion he was saying c clamps . I kept wondering what he was planning to do with them .
The 'Bota should be alive and well tomorrow. We have to assemble the new axle and bolt everything back on, add oil. We got the knuckle and diff case assembled this morning.