Auction buy Stihl 026

I do own a coulple of other Stihls. Im guessing my ms250 bar would swap with the 026. Its an 18" compared to the 16". Im sure itd be just fine. I usually have an extra bar for all my saws anyways, so the beat up one will be the back up.

Im like you in tearing them down and rebuilding is not my forte, so buying one without touching it first was a gamble for me. I figure I waste money on dumber stuff than chainsaws (treadmill) so what the heck. On a side note, found a service ticket in the case and the ole boy who owned before me first name was H.C. My grandpas first name was H.C. Seems like it was meant to be.

 

Your "worn out" bar may be brought back to life by doing some work on it. There are videos that show chain saw bar maintenance and dressing that may help you bring it back to servicable life.

 

I actually prefer the Bat Country annular buffers over OEM, as they are a bit stiffer. Some of the 026's have a fuel line that is NLA. It is an easy fix with a drill bit, the hole in the tank is too small for the line that is available now. You still have to watch because there are still 2 that are still made.

 

I may try and spend a little time on it for a back up bar, but Im not positive itll help much. Also, after I put a new bar on and ran it for a minute the bar got hot enough to burn ya. That doesnt seem normal to me. Oilers working, not real sure whats going on.

 

The new bar got hot? Is the clutch sprocket worn badly and maybe pulling the chain off to one side or the other instead of letting the chain track straight into the bar? Where on the bar was the heat worst? Is the bar gauge the same as the chain? I know, basic question, but I get ahead of myself sometimes...

I see what you mean on the old bar. Those chunks out are bad pizza. The rivet at the top right of the picture looks like the laminations of the bar are trying to seperate, maybe?

 

I would toss that old bar.

 

I see what your saying about the rivet, definitely looks likes attempting to delaminate itself. I didn't get look at the clutch sprocket, ill have to look tonight. Im not sure about the gauge of the chain, its the same one that was on the old bar, ill have to take a look at that too. I dont recall which part of the bar was the hottest. Am I wrong to think it shouldn't burn ya after a minute of running? All i cut was a piece of oak cribbing 2.5 inches tall by 10 inches wide.

 

Not real sure on the heat at the bar part cuz I ALWAYS have gloves on when I'm around a saw. And thinking back I don't ever remember touching a bar right after cutting. For sure not when it's running. I wouldn't think it would be hot enough to blister but I'm sure it gets hot to the touch.

Did it sound normal, I would think if there was excessive friction on the bar, there would be an abnormal sound to it. If the tension is correct and you can move the chain easily by hand without binding, I wouldn't think there would be an issue other than the bar gauge being too large or the clutch sprocket being worn badly. If the chain guage was too big for the bar, I would think it obvious when trying to mount it.

 

It sounded normal enough to me. The chain seems to slide pretty easy by hand. I appreciate everyones willingness to take their time to help.

 

The chunk that is missing at the tip could be caused by either a loose chain or a worn sprocket, both will cause the chain to slap the bar.

 

I did a little investigation tonight on the sprocket and am not sure whats going on. I made six cuts in that oak cribbing and the chain boiled off the water i put on it. Am I correct in mouting the bar on the larger portion of the studs? I did notice the new bar part number was a little different, but have looked to see what the difference is.

 

Drape the chain over the nose of the bar while holding it vertical and then pull the chain to see if it is matched to the teeth on the sprocket.
Then do the same thing with the drive sprocket to see if it matches ok.
Then set the bar sideways and pull the chain through the bar groove to see if it pulls easy and free.
Then start the saw with the clutch cover off and give it a small rev and then look and see if you see oil coming out of the small hole where the oiler is.

 

So ive done most of that, im not real sure the bar sprocket matches up as well as i think it should. I did run it for a bit and it is oiling. I pulled it through horizontally and it seems fine. Ill try the vertical pull in the morning. Am i correct on mounting the bar on the larger diameter part of the studs? Thanks for the help.

 

Yes on Stihls saws they have that shoulder that the bar fits on.

 

Interesting. I can't imagine it ought to be this difficult figure it out. Im sure im missing something simple.

 

Well without being there all we can do is to have you check these things. It is normal for a bar to get hot but not smoking hot. Also if the chain is not real sharp then we all have a tendency to bear down on the saw in the wood to make it cut. That will get the bar and chain real hot. So it is important to keep the chain very sharp.

 

I agree with you. Ill think ill try another chain tomorrow. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Well, I tried another chain, still very hot. Tried the old bar and new chain, same result. I tried a different saw, same result. Just assuming the old oak is just hard and the temperature problem is normal. Ill just keep an eye on it when i use it. Thanks again.

 

I think you are right.

 

I was out yesterday cutting a bunch and thought about this as I was finishing up. I was cutting some standing dead maple and pine. Right after shutting off the saw I took my glove off and touched the bar. No burns but it was hot enough that I didn't want to hold my finger on it for more than half a second. Not smoking or anything, but warmer than I thought it might be.