Another Grinder Thread

Jay...this is your neighborhood. Maybe we could work something out. PM me if you're interested.
http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/tls/4452130216.html

 

Email him and made the deal. Send me money paypal and I will pick it up and ship it to you.

 

Cool. After going back and looking at the ad this appears more than lightly used and has a broken handle. I'm gonna think on it.

 

Pretty important to have that guard and handle.

 

That's what I'm thinking. I'll let you know, but right now I'm leaning towards "pass". Thanks for the offer to pick it up though.

 

I just pulled the trigger on a Northern Tool grinder.

 

I hope so. Going to wait a bit on a new wheel. Those things are $.

 

Congrats
I picked up the Northern Tool grinder a while back ,sale $99 , good price ,solid tool

 

Should be here tomorrow. Not sure when I'll get to mess with it, but any tips on getting it set up and dialed in...or is it pretty self-explanatory?

 

Alright...its here. I have a look of junk chain I'm practicing on. It fell victim to a blown rim sprocket and has several drive links missing or mangled, but has never seen a file or grinder before.

I set the head angle to 60* and the plate angle to 30* and made VERY light pass on one cutter...just enough to throw a few sparks. Then I reversed the angle to the other 30* position and it made a pretty heavy pass. Visually they look different. When I put the calipers on it the second cutter was 0.035" shorter. Am I doing something wrong? Should I expect to have to readjust the stopper for left and right cutters?

 

No but the way you made two different pass's is what caused that. I use 3 light smooth bumps for every cutter. Only time this is a problem is with a chain that hit metal.

 

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Maybe I wasn't clear. I made a super light pass on a left hand cutter. Then I changed to the other 30* position and move to chain so a right hand cutter was on the stop. Rather than making another light pass it made a heavy pass taking off more metal and making the cutter shorter than the opposite side.

 

The stops are not perfect by no means. It will still come down to presser. Even on my 511a if you put harder presser on a tooth that already cut it will still throw some sparks. You can repeat this many times over. Not sure if there is some flex or what but those stops are just a Gide. Consist whit your presser is the key. Again my and this is just me but I always use 3 light smooth taps and keep my sparks consist to. So don't worry to much about the stop.

 

Let me say this a different way just to make sure...left cutter and right cutter are the same length before grinding.

I adjust the stop so the left cutter doesn't even touch the wheel. Then I switch to the right position...and the wheel now touches the cutter. Does that sound right? Should I expect to have to adjust the stop for the left and right?

 

Yes it will normally be off because now your trying to slip over the top of the cutter. The other side you don't have to. Now once you slip over the top you can adjust the stop into the cutter. I leave the stop where its at and slip over the cutter and then at that point use the stop. You can mark your knob and spin back slip it in and turn back to pre set. Until you get the hang of it.

 

Alright I just tried it again. I have to adjust the stop about 1/8 turn back when switching sides to keep them even lengths.

Seems like a pretty good grinder. I think the wheel is a bit out of balance though...just a tiny bit of vibration.

Just need to perfect my routine. I do like the fact that I can do the rakers with it too.

 

Think I got it figured out now. Made a test cut on a freshly ground chain and it rips. 362 is running awesome too.

Had to add a couple washers to the clamp rails get it really dialed in. Without them it was too wide and the chain fell down into the clamp.