Husqvarna 51/55 Build

I saw on some thread a fix for the stripped partition. I can't recall specifics. Maybe a longer screw going the whole way through with a nut on the back side? Could probably melt it in a little to "capture" it.

 

I think your right or there’s always the old weedwacker string melt and fill. I think the partitions are fairly cheap even oem

 

OEM carb and it’s about 15f now vs the 40f or so it was last time I tweeked it.
I really want to like these saws. I need to figure out one as a runner first.

 

Nice projects M2theB. When my McCullogh 610 gave up the ghost, I bought a Husky 51 with an 18" bar. Still run that saw. I think I bought it in 1998 or so, and haven't really had to do much if any significant maintenance at all on it that I can recall. It even has the original bar. Good saw. It still gets pulled into action from my herd particularly during deer season for clearing trail to access downed deer with the four wheeler.

 

My nephew gave me his 51 a few years ago it had no compression the P & C were toast. I tore it down and replaced with a new 55cc Meteor P & C took the guts out of the muffler and just smoothed up the exhaust port put on a 16" b & c. Great running saw.

 

The 51/55 project is still alive but I got distracted by this one, which has its own issues. It’s a 2003, similar design, but has some thought into it with threaded inserts. The 51 serial number is 3331544. Not sure what year that is. I hope it’s pre 2003.

 

not my pics

 

Joe started a really good thread on ope.
Husqvarna 50/51/55 repair thread.

 

Hhhmmm I may know a guy with a 41 that’s looking to sell it....... Just Incase you needed another or a two saws into one kind of thing.

 

Maybe they are a little better, but not much. One of those things that get blown out of proportion... it's a closed port so it must be wayyyyyy better!

 

So I changed out plastic and boots and carbs and rebuilt a carb and changed a boot again and stripped the bulk head so bought a new one and a tank vent....
No change. Just wanted to stall and did stall at idle. Like it was miss firing at idle.

Today I regapped the coil and for zits and grins, and put a new spark plug in.

Low and behold, runs like it should!
Swapped back to the other spark plug, ran like it did before. Dies at idle.
It was the stupid ephan spark plug the whole time!

Keep it simple, stupid.

It was Bosch WSR6F in there while I was having the problem. OE manual calls for a 7.
Makes a difference for sure. Not sure where the 6 came from. I probably just grabbed an old one from the drawer, checked it for spark, and off I went.

Not a total waste of time. Got to learn the saw and got a Mityvac in the garage now.

 

Been there once during a job dropped, limbed and bucked an entire tree. Refilled the tank and went for tree #2.... no start!!!! Ended up being the plug boy did that pizzz me off!!!!

Glad to see you got her running right! Now it’s time for some portand muffler work.....

 

Pulled another 55 out of the bucket today.
Leak check was ok but not 100% but pretty good. I only sprayed the top and could hear a little hiss so attributed to the boot.
Cleaned it up, replaced the fuel filter, the intake boot with a Farmtech, impulse grommet and spark plug. I used a carb that now I question its origin.
Got it built and started but it won’t run. Dies pretty quick at idle.
And it won’t start without choke, at all.
Looks to have a brand new p/c, but I don’t know the make.
Only has 135 psi.
Gonna figure out the carb and replace boot with OEM and get a new bulkhead. Probably check squish and pull the jug to see what going on there.

 

Just picked up an oem p/c today for $69 brand new!! Hope to put a pile of parts together and have another one soon myself! I love these saws!!!

 

Looking for some suggestions. After it warms up a little, it will die when I hit the throttle.
Did a full leak check and it’s tight. The only place it could be leaking now is at the carb gasket, not included in the leak check.
I swapped carburetor to one I know works, same problem.
I can get it to run better when I turn the H adjuster 3 + turns out. But that’s not a good solution.
I still haven’t pulled the jug yet. I’m going to.
Think a leak develops when it’s warm that isn’t seen on a cold leak check?

 

I’d say your on the right track. I’d definitely look at the partition area and make sure the tiny impulse tube is in place and sealing correctly and that there’s no obstructions in the plastic casting. And make sure you’ve got proper fit of the intake “hose” tube piece.

 

If this isn’t the issue I’ll be surprised. I checked this impulse channel looking down at the case. I checked it the other way this morning.
Gasket covers the impulse on the cylinder but not on the case.
Found some good info on AS on this.
Going to open that up to get some daylight and see how it goes.

 

Is that an oops in manufacturing for those gaskets or is there a couple different styles?

 

It’s a manufacture defect with the cylinder. The impulse hole in the cylinder is out board of the channel in the case. So the never match up.

I guess running it cold there was a enough slop to let the impulse make its way through to the carb. But the hotter it got, the tighter it all got and it started the problem.

I took the Dremel and walked the hole closer to the cylinder, using the gasket as the guide. See the pic above.

World of difference. I reset the carb to 1.25 on the H and L before starting it and it was running super rich on H. Now down to about 1.

The rim sprocket doesn’t match the chain I had available, that’s why there isn’t one.