Yep that was everything closed down. However I had not been closing the damper until the temp got high. I'm going to start trying different techniques.
All I'm getting at is if everything is shut tight the rocket ya got going on the bottom of the fire seems to be getting quite a bit of air. Pretty hard to have a good nights snooze if a guy has to worry about a Turbo brewing in his stove. Not everyone here agreed with me modifying my stove with the dremel but it did work and the stove cruises great for the time at sleep or at work. Didn't have to groove much out to make a big difference.
And just so we're clear on what I was trying to get across, my air lever had full range of open/close, but the plate was dropping down on the leading edge of the primary air hole. If we used Loons photo for reference, imagine the edge of the plate he dremeled being raised a few millimeters in the picture. I just can't believe how good your stove breathes with the damper. Hopefully a different technique will get you into more moderate fires.
400 degrees is pretty hot for loading a stove it can get away from you really quick, You need to keep right on it and get it dialed down pretty quick . One thing I was wondering ,are you're baffled boards seated in properly where they need to be ? If they are not it could cause a problem . What baffles me is If your air is shut down and damper is closed, Should be able to put the fire out . I was looking at the manual https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/2150/45055a_05-07-2018.pdf
Ok I'll have to check it out closer. I know it has full range but I haven't looked to see how tight it is.
I'm starting to think it may be a combination of things. Loading too hot, not shutting down quickly enough, etc.
As far as I can tell they are. I would have liked to pull them out this summer but I could not see the pins that hold the tubes in place to take the tubes out to get to the baffle boards. It is an older model but when i called SBI they said the tubes are held in with a pin like the newer ones.
If they look like they are, then they probably are. Sometime when the stove is cool enough maybe you could get a pic of the upper firebox/tube/baffle area, it should be pretty easy to tell...
Well I'm starting to think I'm losing my mind. Maybe I have to go back to the Bill Engvall thread I started. Below is a pic of the primary air damper fully closed. Notice anything? I dont know how I missed it before. Here is a pic after making some adjustments....
I'm visually confused by what I'm looking at. Can somebody explain in small words or arrows please. That hole thingy supposed to be punched and the other thing rides over to block?
If that round thing welded on is a mechanical stop I'd probably be cutting or grinding a little bit off at a time to see effect ( or taping the opening ) Got any magnets around you can at least partially block that opening with ? I'm not familiar with that stove to know if that inlet also supplies air to the tubes. That stop may need to be where it is if you have no extra travel on the handle end of the air control.
It does not supply the air to the tubes. There is an opening in the rear of the stove that goes to the tubes. Now that I have that straightened out I will be partially covering the hole incrementally with a magnet if necessary. Hopefully it wont be needed but we will see.
