Interesting but confusing. Stoves get over 600 degrees sometimes. Where’s the built in safety design?
That’s true but it still is too close for comfort in my opinion. Stoves get hottest when we make mistakes and let them get away from us. That’s the wrong time for gasket sealant to drip on the floor LOL I e just never heard of anyone using high temp silicone for gaskets. It’s been cement since I was a kid. I noticed your instructions call for silicone then use the term cement later. Odd. I’ve read the applications and it seems just shy of being suitable for gaskets IMO. https://www.rutland.com/p/4/600-degree-f-rtv-high-heat-silicone-sealant
I can't really say because I've never used it but I know other people have used it and Didn't have any problems
Maybe it’s rated for 600 but can really take 1000? The stuff Woodstock supplies is a liquid glue. Can’t really call it a cement as it has no body to it. Not a huge fan of that stuff either. Probably works fine but there’s never enough in the little tube to do the supplied gasket. Technically there would be if you could get it all out. I never can. Guess I’m sticking with the cement. It’s been doing the job forever with no complaints.
The stuff I got said it is rated to 2000*. I didn't look to see if it said cement or silicone on the tube but it came out like silicone.
After installing the 3/4" gasket I seem to have better control. It still fails the dollar bill test on the hinge side of the door though. I thought I could adjust the latch but it is welded and not adjustable. I am afraid to load it up because I still got the STT up to just under 800* with 6 splits in it. There was room for a few more but I'm not comfortable pushing it just yet until I see what its gonna do. I hope the 7/8" I have coming will tighten it up. One thing I was thinking though, could it be getting so hot because it's not really cold out yet? Meaning perhaps my draft isnt too strong but instead not strong enough to pull a lot of the heat out? I'm wondering will it behave more consistently once it gets cold cold? If worst comes to worst I will have to order a new latch assembly and cut the old one off so I can adjust it.
Does this mean it will burn hotter? My train of thought was a weaker draft allows the heat to "sit" inside the stove longer thus making the STT higher.....not sure that makes sense. I'm just trying to figure this thing out.
In my opinion, the stove should have to potential to make more heat with more draft when it's colder (more air over the same wood in a shorter time) But the other side of that, again my opinion, is even though it's some type of efficiency with burning all the smoke up/higher stove temps, it moves it through the system quicker so it doesn't have that dwell time in the firebox, which is where temps matter. All you can do is experiment with different settings and find your version of whats best.
Yes, colder weather will increase draft, which pulls more air into the firebox, which makes the fire larger/hotter. When you get the right gasket you should be fine, no need to cut the hinges (you don't mess around, do you?! ) I assume you ordered an OEM gasket? All 7/8" gaskets are not created equal...there are different density's, materials, etc.
I ordered the gasket directly from SBI that is supposed to be the proper one for the stove. I may still end up cutting the door handle off and installing an adjustable one at some point just because. I figured if this gasket still fails the dollar bill test I could always run a weld bead along the hinge side to build it up so it tightens things up. I would hope this gasket wont leak though
Is your door everything rimmed with gold so that it has two 45 degree corners in it? That’s a tough design to get fitting right if so and lots of surface area. FYI Instructions on my stove request you not shut the door while the cement is drying. I always would have done that but they say not too. I dont think gaskets are as good as they once were. Hearing lots of problems besides my own. Even the OEM turn to dust inside. Tried Rutland and they began breaking down and fell off within months. Last set I got from Woodstock is better but ready to be replaced again. Maybe on your hinges you could fill the holes with weld and redrill for a tighter fit. Depends on design, just an idea.
Yes it is the baywood door. I replaced the outside glass gaskets while I had the door gasket off. I will replace the center glass gasket when it comes (did not realize it takes 2 kits to do all 3 pieces) along with putting on the 7/8" door gasket. The baywood door made it kind of a PITA to reset the glass properly but I love the look of it. The rutland tube said to close the door for an hour while it cured. I didn't close it real tight though.
