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When you see something and it scares you!

Discussion in 'The DIY Room' started by Canadian border VT, Aug 19, 2018.

  1. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    LodgedTree Tube and Knot??
    Is that the same as knob and Tube??
     
  2. Unhdsm

    Unhdsm

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    :jaw:That’s putting a lot of faith in the GFI- if it’s even on one.
     
  3. papadave

    papadave

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    Right where I want to be.
    :whistle:
     
  4. chris

    chris

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    actually tube and knob are very safe from a wiring stand point vs everything since, just not very convenient . think about it this way - if the dielectric strength of the wrap material breaks down it shorts out creating a high heat or sparks setting adjacent materials on fire, with the average distance between lines of tube and knob that can't happen. High tension lines are still tube and knob.
     
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  5. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    :whistle:
     
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  6. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    :rofl: :lol:

    :handshake:
     
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  7. Semipro

    Semipro

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    I doubt it does. I don't think its required for a wall heater.
    I'm installing a 240v heater in one of our bathes and wanted to GFCI protect it -- turns out a 240v GFCI breaker is a little hard to find and fairly expensive.

    The fact that that box is probably not GFCI protected makes that install all the scarier.
     
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  8. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    It appears to be a junction box, so why would it/how would it qualify for a GFCI?
    Is there a GFCI box on the market that offers no receptacle?
    :whistle:
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    You could install a 120V GFCI outlet on each leg of the 240V feeding the heater...wired "through" so to protect anything downstream too...obviously. If it worked out that could be your sink or vanity outlet...4 receptacles might be a lil overkill, but better than not enough!
    I guess this wouldn't work if the heater pulled more than 15A per leg though...but that would be a pretty serious heater too! :bug:
     
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  10. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    I thought this was a no-no....? I’m no electrician, just thought I’ve heard a 220 line should be dedicated to its intended end, and not split for 120....ICBW. :yes:
     
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  11. chris

    chris

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    true. proper way would be at the breaker box with a GFI breaker. ($$$)
     
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  12. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Oh, you guys wanna follow the rules...dang! :emb:
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2018
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  13. Semipro

    Semipro

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    I was thinking GFCI protection not for an outlet but for that circuit - at the breaker box.
    A short to the plumbing could shock someone through the plumbing - maybe depending upon how well the plumbing system itself is grounded.
    GFCI protection on that circuit would prevent that.
     
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  14. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    Yes, you’re right.
    :yes:
     
  15. Canadian border VT

    Canadian border VT

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    I called friend who is master and sent him pic.. Its NOT against code!

    His comment, just proves regardless of how many rules there are. You CAN'T make enough to fix stupid!
     
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  16. ironpony

    ironpony

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    Makes me feel better that I could not find anything saying it was against code, I can still read and comprehend what I read.
    But really if you think about a laundry room there is 220V and water in hoses, most likely to leak, right above the floor mount 220 for the dryer. When the wire and piping is sound it is safe, if either is compromised it is unsafe.
    "We" voluntarily bring fire into our homes, if everything is working and maintained properly it is safe, when something is neglected or corners cut on install things go bad very bad.
    Maybe they ran the copper water pipe thru the box for the ground, being I do not see a ground wire in there.
     
  17. chris

    chris

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    just what you need electrolysis on the copper pipe.
     
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  18. Firefighter

    Firefighter

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    The nec book like akot if things is bare minimal to pass code unfortunately anymore people don't use there noggins either when I rewired my house I had to shake my head so much was rigged from the start :bug:
     
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  19. ironpony

    ironpony

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    why would this happen ?? did I miss something ??
    I understand dissimilar metals etc.
     
  20. chris

    chris

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    minerals in water + ph of water, adding a low grade electrical current even if intermittent...... For many years neutral and ground were one in the same. For years if you had copper plumbing it was against code to bring it through the drywall , that section had to be steel- Must have been written by a plumber looking to make money down the road as those connections will always rot out at about 20 years or so again depending on PH of water. Closer to home back when they started the high efficiency furnaces and Hot water heaters without a standing pilot- fast forward 10 or more years and we are having failing flue systems ( as well as rusting out combustion chambers) due to the mortar being attacked by the creation of acids by moisture( condensation due to temp. swings) and residuals of combustion. A very prevalent problem in the more northern climes on older homes. That little bit of heat from the standing pilot kept the moisture at bay in the flue. I had to correct 3 of my homes with this in the last 35 years, By the time I got to the 3rd one I was on top of it prior to closing. Slow learner I guess, actually the information wasn't readily available prior as to the actual cause, just chalked up to age of components. ( won't even get into the acid rain debate in the high concentration industrial areas, funny though cause we almost never hear about that any more)