In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Anybody own the Harman 52i service rail kit?

Discussion in 'Pellet Stoves, Pellet Fireplaces, Pellet Furnaces' started by dotman17, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I'll send pics shortly. I don't understand it.
     
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  2. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I'll try lifting up on it.
     
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  3. dotman17

    dotman17

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    20180108_102138.jpg 20180108_101558.jpg 20180108_102232.jpg 20180108_101617.jpg 20180108_102212.jpg
     
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  4. dotman17

    dotman17

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    The lip is immobile
     
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  5. dotman17

    dotman17

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    20180108_102156.jpg
     
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  6. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I suspect I have to remove the bolt in the far left in this photo and the bolt in the far right (hidden in the shadow). It appears this is where the ash lip is being held down or connected to the frame. What bothers me is that these screws/nuts show no signs of wrenching. That tells me that a) the lip was never removed during installation or b) the lip is secured elsewhere.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I can remove them and try but it's a nice paint job and I was hoping not to eff it up if it can be avoided -- particularly if it's not the correct solution.
     
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  8. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I'm pretty sure my problem is with either the orange or red bolts on each side. Anybody have any feedback?

    harman_ash_lip_bolts.png
     
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  9. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I just looked at the installation manual -- and while they didn't say anything specifically about removing those red screws -- their diagrams don't show this red screw. Furthermore, the ones I have circled in orange are called Tek adjustment screws and appear to be used for door alignments.

    I checked the screw in red and it doesn't appear to be hex so I'm most likely going to try channel locks. But I could use some confirmation. Do any of the 52i owners have this screw in red and if so, have you been successful in removing the ash lip?
     
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  10. imacman

    imacman

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    Is it possible the screw in red was a shipping bolt that was supposed to be removed before final installation? It looks like the removal of that might allow the top portion to move (slide). It doesn't have a screwdriver slot in the end, does it?

    Again, calling Lousyweather
     
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  11. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I agree. I'm not sure what function it's serving otherwise. I guess I'll try some channel locks and see what happens. It'd suck though if I ruined the threads on that screw and found out later I was barking up the wrong tree and really needed those.
     
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  12. dotman17

    dotman17

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    Just confirmed with a guy in another forum that these red screws are unneeded and can and will be removed
     
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  13. imacman

    imacman

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    If you haver 2 nuts the same size & thread, wind them down a little and lock against each other tightly, then try turning out.
     
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  14. PhilaB

    PhilaB

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    You don't have to do anything the orange screws. In theory, just loosen the red ones and that trim should slide out the front.

    Those red screws look weird to me though... Do they have heads on them? Mine are bolts with hex heads. I can take a pic if you want?
     
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  15. dotman17

    dotman17

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    Sure! Definitely not touching orange screws. I guy sent me picks and he doesn't have any screws
     
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  16. dotman17

    dotman17

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    Yeah took the red screws out and it came right out.
     
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  17. PhilaB

    PhilaB

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    Well I know you got your out, but I took the pics already and now you have to look at them anyway.

    Loosen the jack-bolts (or screws) that push down against the clamps that hold the ash lip in place. One on each side:
    [​IMG]

    Then just pull the whole U-shaped piece out. One hand. Easy-peasy:
    [​IMG]
     
  18. dotman17

    dotman17

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    I got the ash lip out, the stove pulled out and cleaned the exhaust tube again from the inside and vacuumed from the outside.

    20180108_180824.jpg
     
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  19. dotman17

    dotman17

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    But I have 2 issues I have questions about. 1) Should I waste time trying to clean clean the chimney flue. I am having a professional guy come out this summer and got to believe he is going to pull out the stove and do his thing. If I do it, I must disconnect the control panel wires and pull the stove further out. Not a huge deal but risk of failure on my behalf increases.

    20180108_172948.jpg

    2) i still haven't gotten to the pellet feeder clean out cover and it looks like I either need damm skinny hands or remove the combustion motor. What a pain in the azz. How the eff do you get the motor out? Hobbit socket wrench?? I'll call my friend Bilboa Baggins.

    combustion_motor.png

    The pellet feeder is behind that little thing in the middle left. It's the combustion motor. There's a wingnut and panel behind it that I need to remove.

    Can anybody recommend a tool for this? Small socket wrench? Shrinker gun to make my hands smaller?
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2018
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  20. dotman17

    dotman17

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    If i don't take it out, I have to try and stick my left hand through here:

    top_combustion.jpg

    And stick my right hand through here:

    side_combustion.jpg

    That's about an inch on the right in the green.

    There are a total of 3 screws like the one on the left in orange on the combustion chamber. I have to remove all 3 of them to clean the combustion motor and fan and access the pellet feed area. I guess I use a small socket wrench and remove this one in front and try to figure out out how I can get to one of them on the bottom. Not sure how I'm going to get the third one out.

    Has anybody ever done this?