Glass so clean....

My BIL had a wood stove installed at his lake home (not there any longer) and the glass was always always black. always.

You know,.......deaf ears.

Well then, be sure to clean your chimney 2-3-4 times a season, OK?

He told me he isn't burning wood this year.

 

I know what he is talking about though, instead of a raised surface of this flocking almost of white, there is a deviation, almost like its a hole of its own forming. When its rubbing it can tear at a cloth as its cracks are super fine. Like a dremel is needed or something?

 

Yes, running a firebox cool <usually> results in tarring up the chimney also. Unless it is a catalyst based stove and the catalyst is clean and working well, then the firebox can be dripping with liquid creosote and yet all above the cat. is clean as a whistle. But even then, running a firebox that cool takes a fair amount of care and attention so that the cat. does not 'go out' and again pour all that garbage up the stack.

I never leave the house or go to bed right after loading the stove, starting a fire, closing the bypass and setting the stove for the long burn because I have had that very thing happen. Not good. So I always set the stove to run at least hot enough to keep the cat. going no matter what, if it is a fresh load of splits and there is not a well- established coal bed, even if I know it will overheat the house. Just not worth the mess it can make if the cat. does stall.

Brian

 

Yeah, right. A nice clean piece of door glass with the white fog I have seen will cause a towel to drag over it.

There are videos on Youtube about how some people use cerium oxide (an extremely fine, hard abrasive) and a felt pad on a drill to buff this 'frost' out of stove door glass.

I am sure you are right in what you are saying Kimberley but I think we are talking about two different things. And the only place I ever have the white 'fog' form is on the bottom of the door, usually after burning down coals that got the glass extremely hot; one of those fires throwing out so much I.R. that I cannot look directly at it without squinting.

Brian

 

That’ll do it...

 

Normally if I just loaded the stove, I don’t go anywhere within about an hour afterwards. After then, the fire will have burned past its peak and then settles or plateaus around 500-550°F 260-280°C. Its known to get hotter around 625-650 but ot often and not for long. Once the flames are tamed, i just see hot logs. Its ridiculously hot and white ash. Very clean , fire brick is like pure white. By then I either just set one log in for bed and im done. Windows get shut and I’ll barely open the throttle. So far even a log to which im still unsure what the wood is, burns all night and its small. The stove runs so much better when its been hot hot for hours. House staying warm all night and glass stays Clean.

 

Jeez, I do not want to pick on you or anything but really, you need to throw out some warnings if you are going to post some things. In your last post, the words "Once the flames are tamed, i just see hot logs." really, really needs an (Easy Boys) or better yet and (Easy Girls!) stuck in there as a disclaimer.



Brian

 

I solemnly swear that any typed verbiage or vernacular that is uttered in my post is often beyond my control and such punacious twaddle Will not include a Easy Ladies and Germs. Disclaimer: poster will also post in drivel, pig latin, Franco—American, mutt, and Ent. Such Hot Logs will be muttered here.

 

I resemble those remarks!

 

Finally cooled the stove off after a 3 week 24/7 burn. Mind you, I didn't clean the glass when I swept the chimney Nov. 3rd, so who knows how many weeks of haze here. All better now lol

 

And just to comment on your comments: yes, it is always desirable to load a stove that is both hot and has a substantial, active coals bed with fresh splits. A world of difference between that and the stove being virtually out of fuel because in the first case, just a trickle of air and it will usually catch the new splits and continue on a clean, stable burn. In the second case, the fire basically has to be started again and go through that cool, needs a lot of air to get the wood charred phase again.

Once winter really sets in so the stove can be used a little harder and full- time, a lot of modern stoves have a different problem: the coal bed gets bigger and bigger and yet will not give off enough heat to actually heat the house. So the stove is more than 1/2 full of slow- burning fuel (coals), not enough fresh splits can be loaded to allow the stove to put out enough heat and you are kind of stuck in 'no man's' land. The way out of that one is either to push a lot of air through the stove to burn down the coals before the next reload, or to figure out some way to burn the coals down with a new load of firewood.... that usually requires just a bit of air introduced at the bottom of the firebox, directly into the coals. Under the grate is best if the stove has a grate, otherwise a small vent hole almost at the bottom of the firebox will help a lot.

Brian

 

Hopefully I won’t have this problem, where I live its too temperate around here. Cold is often mixed with moisture so a dry cold winter is rare. But I made sure to have hardwood for overnight, but only for small loads. Ash piles up quick.... but I know how that coaling is stuck phase, best thing is to balance the two and wait it out.