It takes two hands to operate my stove door

Too late to return stove to Lowe's.

 

I have to leave for now; I will check this when I return later this evening.

 

OK, I inspected the hinges again because someone thinks the door is up too high on the stove. It appears the top hinge may be welded too high. Look at the photos and see what you think. I will label which hinge is which for the photos. I will send these photos to ESW and see what they say.

First photo is the top hinge; notice how the door part of the hinge is sitting flush with the stove part of the hinge.



This is the bottom hinge. Notice there is a gap between the door part of the hinge and the stove part of the hinge. This may be all that is needed for the door to hit the damper knob.

 

I also noticed a small gap; enough to see light from the fire through it; on the hinge side of the door. I thought it seemed that the fire was not damping down as much with the damper all the way closed; although it is not a huge gap, just a minor one.

 

Hmm, it does look like the top hinge is holding the door up.
Maybe someone got a bit lazy when placing the jig while the body hinges were being welded.
Without knowing the exact procedure, it's all conjecture.

 

Also looks to have a bit of a burr on the bottom of the door side of both.

 

Yes, I noticed that and that is probably why the door gets hard to open when you go past 90 degrees; however, that would be easy enough to grind off. Moving the door hinges is not.

 

How much sealing room do you have for the door on the face of the stove?

I'd probably file the hinges down some if you have the room. Might be able to use a bigger gasket rope to fix the gap.

 

Just a thought if you were to trim down hinge metal (either the door or the stove) is how would the door handle/latch between door and stove be affected? If at all?

 

That spring handle for the damper control, it moves in and out?

 

Yes, I could ground down the top hinge; making it less tall, the amount of the gap at the bottom but that is outside the fact that ESW's worker put the hinge on in the wrong place.

 

Looking at the amount of the gap on the bottom hinge, I would not say a little. In the photo; have not took a scale to it yet as the stove is hot, that gap appears to be significant.

 

They messed something up for sure. Sounds like they're not going to be of much help though. So you're gonna have to fix it yourself.

 

Yes, it is attached to the rod; to be used for the damper position but also to rotate to operate the Automatic Air Setback (AAS).

 

Oh, you don't know me ; once I latch on, I don't release. I will post my Tractor Supply story that started back in May and was just recently settled to my satisfaction.

 

Here's what may be the simplest "solution".......grind down enough of the top of the door to clear the rod. Make it nice, repaint, and call it gooder.
I doubt pulling a bit of material off there would compromise the integrity of the door.

 

Tell everyone it's a "feature", not a bug. That's what Microsoft does.

 

Is it possible to bend the lever up out of the way? Like slip a cheater pipe or box end wrench over the end?

 

Take a look at this photo again. That would be a large grove in the top of the door to accommodate the spring knob.