Stihl MS230

In the cutter, no. The drive link is different in that it has the single-hump design that reduces kickback tendencies when the nose of the bar contacts something. This hardly affects cutting speed until the nose of the bar is buried in the wood. The difference with the nose buried is fairly noticeable however. So it depends on what you are cutting in order to make the best choice.

If you are mainly limbing and not using the nose on the bar, the PS3 would perform just as good as the PS, while providing the reduced kickback function because, you know, chit happens.

If you are setting up your high-powered top handle saw for chunking down big tops and trunks, (where a 12-16" bar is likely to spend a fair amount of time buried) I'd want the PS.

 

Stick with the P7 for the MS230.

EDIT - this assumes you are converting the 230 to a rim sprocket.

 

Was this an 8T 3/8"P setup Nixon or the .325"? Just curious. My understanding is that the P8 sprockets for Stihl are NLA these days anyways. 8T might work out ok if all you did was limb 6" and smaller branches. I could see the extra chain speed paying off there but it would certainly be a dog in anything much bigger than that.

 

Yep. Even the MS250 loses a significant amount of torque with a 8T .325" sprocket on it. I have tried that combo myself. IIRC, there isn't much difference in sprocket OD between an 8T .325" and the P7 for 3/8"P. But the saw is a whole lot spunkier with the 3/8"P as long as you don't mind the increased need for sharpening.

Sprocket size comparisons should be listed here.

50cc CHAIN shoot out - 3 Bars, 3 Chains, 5 Sprockets, and 1 Saw.

In fact, start at the beginning of that thread and there is a whole LOT of cutting tackle talking going on.