No excuses, that bolt has to come out because I am not pulling the engine. Besides, I don't have a cherry picker to pull the engine.
With my luck I would try to remove the bonnet; by myself of course because the last time I looked around here, there was only me, and have the dang thing go through the windscreen. Can't pull the engine/trans with the bonnet on. Besides, I don't have a cherry picker to pull the engine, so the bolt must come out!
I interviewed with a guy from Ford; he was looking for an engineer to work on conveyor belts in Detroit. I am not making this up. We got to talking about the cars and I mentioned how they are impossible to service. He agreed and said they were working on improving the serviceability of the cars. What BS, I have never seen a modern car that you did not have to remove half the engine to get to the part you need to replace. And needed a toolbox full of special tools that you will only use once in your life. Speaking of car repair; if one was to go into servicing cars, the smart thing is to do only one make of cars. Be a Ford shop, or a Buick Shop, etc.
You guys state workers? It's referred to as the bi-tch bolt. Once you know where it is it's easy. Some people never put it back. If I had to guess it's the 1stly converter 2ndly pump related(splines to the verter input) Chain could have broken... You can pull the side cover for an inspection without pulling the trans if it were chain related. But still not worth the time or money. I'd ebay-craigslist the same way you did and drive it! The new fluid will cost more than the trans
I managed top put my finger on the bolt but have still not seen the bolt. I read one place they said remove the oil pressure switch and you would be able to see it. Nope. I think the power steering pump is going to have to be removed in order to get to the bolt from the passenger side wheel well. It might have been easier to just pull the engine and trans as a unit. My used trans was $350.00; I had to pay $50 extra for a lift-gate truck. I haven't long changed the fluid and filter in this car and that is going to have to be dumped in the recycling centre.
Really? Everything I read about the valve body repair said not enough room to remove the cover. How would it be possible to remove the valve body and the end cover of the transmission in the car?
I've done it several times, here's a video a guy doing the same I've done 7/8th chain done noids, I even did the 300m that way(into mounted converter). In hindsight doing upgrades to is easier on the bench. I don't think I'd pull the trans just to swap a chain though. I actually snapped the pump shaft after not knowing I lost a locating pin inside and the pump injested it the kid days
The video won't play for me. I heard the early models of the GM 4T65E (my tranny) the input shaft would break. They later hardened the input shaft to prevent this. Good possibility that is what happened with me because it is completely no go. I don't have the means to pressure check the unit but my feeling is that the pump is not being driven so no pressure. The pump on these is a standard vane pump and those things go and go until they wear out and loose pressure but they don't just fail catastrophically; or least I haven't seen such. I would like to see the vid. Now I have seen one guy that works on these units in the car, but he basically almost does everything to just ahead and pull the trans. He either removes the mounts etc and drops it down (including splitting the sub-frame) or he tilts it up out of the engine bay. To be honest, I think the guy I have seen is risking damaging other components. I guess I am going to bite the bullet and order a new set of solenoids for this unit even though the $80.00 is going to hurt a bit. Even if the old ones test out good, they are 19 years old and they might fail a few months after I put the tranny back in and then I get the fun of pulling it again.
Yes, I saw those videos, he just about does everything needed to pull the trans. If all you are doing is valve body solenoids, I can see not pulling it but I think there is one in which he does a rebuilt in car. Fine if it is his car but if it is mine and I am paying, I don't see this.
Here is my DIY engine support; the cross pieces at the end have to be angled to the back support and slightly angled to the front support. There are host points in the front and rear so I will be distributing the weight between the two 2x4s and the wide side is vertical. The engine weights roughly 400 lbs. The span of the 2x4s is less than 5 ft/154cm. I think the lumber is yellow pipe; not sure as I did not purchase it. Anyone have any data on yellow pine? The front hoist point is more or less going to be loading in the middle of the span. The back hoist point is going to be towards the passenger side. I remember doing these calculations in statics class. Just need to be safe although when I am under I will have have something under the engine just in case. Then when ready to pull the trans, I hope to be out from under the car so I can clear the area.
I finally saw the rear bolt today. The location is marked in red. Looks simple but there is exhaust manifold and brackets etc. Also imagine the engine bolted in place and you can understand why this was so difficult. I was able to peek through a hole at the passenger side and see the bolt. So now I know where to try and snake the extension bars with the socket. The hard part will be putting it back in.
No one answered on the engine support and since the engine falling on me can kill me, I think I will additional 2x4s.
I don't see anything marked in red... I do observe an overhaul job that would have me seeing red, tho....
Can you span atop the front pine 2x with another laying flat, making the shape of a T? That would add plenty of strengths....
Where is this "centre?" J/K ya....it's there. I couldn't resist myself.... Stevie Wonder could see that red box....
I don't have any timber here; well, there are trees but no way to mill; I have looked at the milling forum and that is neat stuff. I will get my sister to bring some more when she can.
