Why is this chain not sharp?

A maintenance sharpen is nothing but when the chain has been rocked or touched steel it's a whole nother story. I measured the rakers and they are just below the teeth.

 

The part number of the Husqvarna .325 standard guide is 505 69 81-09.
The part number of the Husqvarna .325 narrow kerf guide is 505 69 81-08.
Both are natural aluminum in colour.

The site and my computer don't get along, but give it a try
Husqvarna Filing equipment Combination gauges

 

From my perspective, The teeth are not ground far enough back to eliminate the rolled in corner, the depth gauges look to be untouched which means the tooth can't bite even if properly ground. Minimum .020 top of depth gauge to top of tooth ( I use .030 for the most part.) if using a gauge for this pay attention to where the sides of the gauge are, that they are not contacting some else and giving a false indication. ( when using a bench grinder or similar). some are pretty deep and long and will ride on the vise parts.

 

Ok so how many strokes should I attempt to do on each tooth? I did 10 strokes per tooth earlier today and it still didn't cut great. Better but not great. I may have to check the rakers more closely.

 

You have to keep filing till you have a crisp working corner, zero damage on the top plate. Then use the raker portion of the guide.

Great info, that very well could be the issue. What are the odds we could find someone with both pieces to confirm?

@ this point I would advise NB to lightly file the top of the slot until the 3/16" rides flush in the gullet on the newest chain in your possession, new being ideal. To match my earlier pic.


I'm personally not a fan of round ground chain. When you get good enough with a file, it's not as fast.

 

Here's mine.

 

When you buy a new chain, it is ground and they are fast. Stihl RS is great out of the box.

It is a little tough to figure out what angles work well on a grinder. I can't tell a difference in my ground chains or my filed chains. Grinding is way faster. The 30/60/0 everyone talks about does not work well.

 

I forget now , what does that little hourglass looking symbol mean ?

 

Pixel/narrow kerf

 

That's what I was thinkin but didn't want to say that and be wrong

 

Meh... Find a friend with a square grinder and you'll realize it's not.

 

This stinks.
Mine does not have that symbol. Just a big .325

 

Yup, that symbol that looks like the neck of an old Coke bottle (or the beverage of your choice ) in a circle is the narrow kerf sign. The circle with the bar through it in front of the 4.8 is the file size in millimetres or 3/16" inch if you're not into Trudeau math. Or you can slide your file through the two holes on the sides of the gauge. If it's a snug fit start filing teeth.

How do I know? The Husky dealer gave me a narrow kerf guide when I needed a standard kerf guide. I probably spent more on gas than I spent on the guide.

 

I have a bunch of different ways to sharpen but never used one of those roller jigs

 

For a round chain that you can go out and work with it is.

 

OK, the 3/8" LP guide doesn't have an attached raker depth gauge.
Husqvarna Chainsaw Sharpeners and Filing Equipment Roller File Guide

The .325" guide and the 3/8" regular chain guides do.
Husqvarna Chainsaw Sharpeners and Filing Equipment Combination File Guide

That Husqvarna website is not compatible with my computer, although I finally got the Pale Moon browser to work. Vista, I guess.
I'll try to post a pic or two after I grab a bite.

 

The 3/8" low profile guide with raker gauge and the .325 guide, both with the correct sized file. I'm never too sure that the low profile raker gauge is accurate.

 

Its my experience that these husqvarna roller guides seem to work better on oregon or carlton chain. Maybe using them on stihl chain im not getting it seated properly. I like stihl rs chain it holds a sharp edge longer than oregon. The stihl chain seems harder to sharpen.

 

I agree on Stihl chain. I use a lot of it. Holds an edge longer than others in my experience and is harder to file (and on files). I used the roller guides quite often when I first started to learn to file by hand. I use mainly 3/8 and that guide fits fine too. I bought the .325 because I started picking up Husky 350's when I saw one in need of some TL. Flipped quite a few and they always wore .325. I feel bad here because I advised to get the roller and not it's not fitting for NB. Maybe I should send him mine?
What happened to me is I started to cut crooked and learned it was because my cutters weren't the same length. So I ended up buying one of these:


This jig exploited how bad I really was. And it 100% solved my crooked cuts while producing an unbelievable edge. Better than out of the box IMO. Now I've moved on to square filed and square ground, which I have video's showing 25-30% faster than any round. That's an increase some builders get with port work!

 

No worries man. I filed down the husky roller a hair on each side and it fits good now.