Fahrenheit Technologies Endurance 50F Information

Santa Dex.... haha

 

Even better

 

I have an idea.. Let's all post up your serial #'s.

Quote this post (when you quote it, delete the "quotes" at the beginning and end of the list. That way it's not dark grey and it look like your post) and add your serial number. I'll edit it if need be. Or copy and paste my post and add yours below it)

Tjim01 - 3143

 

Hello all - I'm new to this forum, but not new to burning corn and pellets. I used to frequent the "iburncorn" site (I think now defunct) when I first got involved in this in 2008 with my first F50. Mark Graham stopped by my place when I first got it and was having problems - he then upgraded me to the newer version for free in Michigan. Great guy. Anyhow, I haven't burnt for a couple years since the propane prices fell and my furnace sat dirty (what a fool I am, I know I won't do THAT again!) and corroded quite a bit during that time. I'm now going through it and upgrading what I can - getting a new exhaust fan motor and blade from Don, based on the information I found here . I'm also going for the upgrade exhaust manifold, but I think most if not all the bolts will snap off when I remove the old manifold (see pics). What headache am I in for when that happens? Pretty tight quarters behind there and not sure if I am left with drilling them out and trying to get nuts behind there? Not to easy for me to get in from the back.

Also, how important is it for me to get to the top of the exchange tubes? The heater exchange tube plate is also rusted and one screw is already snapped off without me doing anything yet....[/URL][/IMG]

It's all a mess right now - not sure where all the moisture came from. I had the exhaust and intake all capped off from the outside this whole time.

 

Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Basement is damper than the rest of the house. Might have to put Dampness removal aid gizmo. Mine was surface rust from the summer. Welcome to FHC.

 

Time for Damp Rid kits placed in unit and cooking spray to goober rust. Looks like a winter project.

 

Roger that - it is winter and it is definitely a project! Got two bolts drilled out and re-tapped. Waiting on 6" drill bits to get to the other two. Luckily, my son works at Fastenal to get me all the odd tools and supplies I need ;-)

I have another question for you all - The unit is tied into my propane furnace ductwork and I question if I can/should disconnect from the return air plenum. I have 2 reasons I am considering this;

1). The sheetmetal box the installer made on the back of the unit extends across the entire width of the unit. As the exhaust duct exits just above this, it makes it near impossible to get to the clean-out of the exhaust without disassembling ductwork. If it stays, I at least will need to have that box made differently to correct this.

2). While working on it with the house furnace running, I notice massive amounts of return air back-feeding from the ductwork into the burner, which is only reducing the effectiveness of the house furnace system.

So, as I understand the purpose of return air loop in an HVAC system, I'm not so sure I really need the burner tied into this as the house HVAC is already providing the loop - why can't the burner simply take the cold air from the basement and push the warm air into the house hot-air loop? (I'd also love to get rid of the convoluted & massive (12") cold air ductwork in the process.)

Thoughts??

 

I don't have the cold air return installed and finding the dust from filling the hopper dirties the filter sooner than later.

 

Thanks for the input. I can deal with the filter getting dirty sooner.

Here's another interesting pic...I got the HE Tube Plate off with only 1 broken screw and found what appears to be Stalactites , lol.....just odd.

 

Sorry, but I have another question - are you pulling your combustion air in from outside, or just the room? If from outside, what are you using for the duct and adapter to the duct, if required? I removed the chicken-chit setup the installer had in there an debating if I even need to replace it or not?

FYI - The return air ducting is now history and I like it gone.

 

My furnace is inside a furnace room 7 1/2ft X 13ft. I leave my door open to let out heat into the laundry room. Not much heat but my water system is in there too. Ok for hot water tank but not the cold tank. I will tie the cold air later as I'm still tinkering ideas how to connect it. I will be going on left side from looking in front of furnace. Right side is too busy.

 

Need a good grill brush and chimney brush to clean out. Check the airflow holes in back of ash pan drawer. I use plumbing strap to run up sides and clean.

My stove has the cold air return from Fahrenheit so not much to prep for cleaning. I also have 3ft of clearance in the back. Mine is ducted into my furnace as well.

 

You can go to Fahrenheit website and download the manual for free. You also need a back draft damper going to main furnace. They also recommend one on main furnace below AC coil.

 

Thanks guys - I have the manual and all is/was installed according to the instruction "Connecting to existing duct work & furnaces"...just think the return air connection is pointless. In my earlier post I misspoke a bit. The return air duct wasn't "back-feeding" is was drawing cold air through the F50 anytime house furnace was on...and the F50 was not, which reduces the return air effectiveness of the house furnace (and maybe draws damp air from basement into the F50 when not running, partially causing this mess).

I don't run the F50 as much as you fella's - especially with propane prices at reasonably levels. I have quite a bit I pre-bought cheap enough that burning pellets or corn isn't much worth the effort anymore, but once I get this thing done with all the upgrades (Don's motor & fan, Sail Switch, Exhaust Manifold, plugging some pot holes, sealing the hopper, yadda, yadda) I'm hoping burning gets more efficient and it's competitive even at these propane prices (which will be going up this year I think). I was only getting about 135-140 degrees from the F50 (measured 12" from top of unit) and hope to get closer to 155 when all is done.

 

Thanks Dexter - I do have a backdraft damper on the furnace and also use outside air for the combustion. I would say my basement is "semi-heated"...probably 65 degrees generally. I am planning to plug my pot holes according to your example also. I hope I can get to your clean/efficient burn before the winter's over...just waiting on parts now to put it all back together. Kinda excited to get it going again after the couple year break.