In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

How long do you run your chains?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Bgoathill, Oct 30, 2016.

  1. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    Define massive..;) Normally when we cut it is more than 4 cord a day.

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    Some guys skid/drag their wood so that will dull them up fast. We don't do that sop we get more cuts per chain because of that. With hand filing you normally get more life out of the chain as less metal is wasted/taken off. Dad hand files quite a bit but I take spares as I'd rather cut when the weather is fit and I have light. I can sharpen when conditions aren't there.

    You obviously do not cut dead osage! :saw:
     
  2. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    That is a lot of wood for one day. More than I can do but I am usually by myself with the wife watching she does not use a chain saw.
     
  3. Firewood Bandit

    Firewood Bandit

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    Great pics Kevin!:smoke::thumbs::salute::yes:
     
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  4. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Dead locust either:eek:. tuff dulls a chain pretty fast
     
  5. Woodsnwoods

    Woodsnwoods

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    I generally keep them between 1/2 and 1/3 tooth remaining. I am now touching them up on the saw with a hand file every 2-3 tanks with only 1-2 strokes with the file. I have the electric grinder in the event I hit a rock. I generally scrap 1-2 chains per year, but it depends on what you are cutting right. When I bought logs, they were had mud and dirt on them. Now that I am dropping them myself and minimally skidding the dirt is far less and the chains last so much longer. I am running the square ground right now and with some forethought prior to dropping, I am keeping chains sharp and fast. :dex:
     
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  6. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    I run them till they either start snapping the links at the rivets or when enough teeth are gone off one side that it won't cut. Even then it is used one more time for a stump chain.

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    As long as the raker/depth gauges are set correctly it should cut like a new chain. When they get to this point is when they can let loose. If you are working in Dead locust, osage and the like it will pull them off quicker.

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    This chain was used in trimming up dead Osage and you can see the tooth is bent from the pull. I switch out chains to a newer/stronger one to avoid this now.

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    Pretty close to a blank chain when it stopped cutting.

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    The raker grinder I made up can dress any combo of factory spec'd design. It makes a big difference in the smoothness of the cut.

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    Makes it nice and a fun experiment.

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    Before

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    After
     
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  7. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I want a rake grinder!! I am still lost on how to set mine up for rakers. I have read the book and watch a YouTube on it but still lost
     
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  8. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    Most people file them flat but that will make for a less smooth cut from what I have found

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    They will look like this.(before)

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    This is after it's been brought back. this is the Stihl Picco style raker. If you are doing a lot of plunge cutting it makes a big difference. It cuts even or smooth on the tip when ground like this. Not a safety set up as you can get kickback so be aware of that. At least do a slight angle back as a hard front leading edge will cause more drag and chatter. Just something I've picked up on over the years.

    You should be able to do your rakers on most chain grinders. I'd suggest getting another wheel and hand dressing a slight angle and check with your gauge as you go.
     
  9. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I hand file now and file some slope into it. but if I could do to on the grinder it would save time