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Your nc30 needs a convection deck

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Highbeam, Jan 17, 2015.

  1. papadave

    papadave

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    Yep, that long cut was finished with the sawzall and I think a bi-metal blade.
     
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  2. HDRock

    HDRock

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    I use to cut all tube n pipe with a sawzall till, I had a big job and got my metal chop saw :)
     
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  3. papadave

    papadave

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    I got a cut-off saw from my FIL, but I think it's missing something. I'd have to look at it again.
     
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  4. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Cool :cool:
     
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  5. capetownkg

    capetownkg

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    Glad to see I am not the only one adding a convection deck this summer. After all the great advice and instructions on here I started mine.

    20160806_093040.jpg

    Looks like me and papadave are about at the same spot! I just ordered an ac30 fan brand new for $100 so waiting on that to arrive to finish her up. Cant wait to see the difference this year
     
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  6. papadave

    papadave

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    It's a convection deck epidemic!
    That's looking good capetownkg . Didn't wanna' go all overkill on the thickness, eh? :rofl: :lol::whistle:
    I'll be working on mine a little today, between other stuff. Are those self tappers into the tube stock? Did you predrill the sheet?
    Mine will need that, then I may countersink also.
    You got a good deal on that blower, and you'll appreciate how well it moves the air.
    :popcorn:
     
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  7. capetownkg

    capetownkg

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    I think its fairly thick, i went with 16 gauge steel. The screws are self tapping i didnt predrill at all. Im not as worried about overall look since mine is slammed back into the fireplace. Just need to get the back section screwed together and wait for the blower. I followed highbeam instructions and its been great so big thanks to him.
     
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  8. papadave

    papadave

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    Had a little time today to grind the top piece, and get the 1st couple coats of paint on.
    I'm gonna' need another can of paint.
    IMG_20160809_190832_680.jpg IMG_20160809_191251_600.jpg
     
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  9. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Lookin good
    :popcorn:
     
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  10. papadave

    papadave

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    I think I'm cursed.
    Anyway, these supposed metal cutting blades are wearing out faster than I do. By a lot, and I wear out pretty fast.
    Two blades didn't even make the semi-circle cut in the back plate. :hair::picard: I'm gonna' go buy 3 more, just to make sure I can get this done. The plan was to do that today by getting it filed down, cleaned, and painted. I found another can of hi-temp paint I forgot I bought. Yay me.:dex:
    So far...convection deck 3, me 1 (I'm not really keeping score, just taking poetic license to make a point).
    I'm losing the battles, but I'll win the war. By gosh, or by golly.
     
  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    What blades are you using exactly?
     
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  12. papadave

    papadave

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    Well, I have these wood cutting blades..........:rofl: :lol:
    Bi-metal, metal cutting blades. Only decent ones I can find, unless maybe I order online.
    Not a metal worker here, so I don't have much experience cutting this "soft" HRS.
    Is there an alternative that's gooder?
     
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  13. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Oh ,you will win the battle it's only a matter of time, and a little more money:)
     
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  14. raybonz

    raybonz Moderator

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    Are you using cutting fluid? This makes a big difference by keeping the blades cool.. Cut slowly and no sparks..
     
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  15. papadave

    papadave

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    No cutting fluid. Will that keep the blades from dulling so quick?
    Again, complete metal newb here.
    Will WD40 or the like work?
     
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  16. Locust Post

    Locust Post

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    WD40 would be better than no oil but some light weight oil would be better. Even some of your wife's canola or vegetable oil would work. Of course you know you will have to get that oil cleaned off well before you paint.
     
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  17. raybonz

    raybonz Moderator

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    I have mentioned this twice for this reason.. I prefer Tap-Free but regular cutting oil will work.. Blade gets hot it will self destruct..
     
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  18. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Like LP said, WD-40 is better than nothing, but I tend to use motor oil if I don't have any actual cutting oil (which works the best)
    I'd recommend bi-metal blades, about 18 TPI, take it slow, don't push the saw too hard, especially on the curves...and plenty of oil
     
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  19. papadave

    papadave

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    Yeah, I know Ray......:headbang:
    I don't have any "cutting oil". Might be able to find some tomorrow.
    The blades were bi-metal 21TPI.
    Had some others in a couple different packs that said they were metal blades. Nope, not this metal.
     
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  20. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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    All above have put it out there...lower TPI, cutting oil, and SLOW!
    Pick up a "flap" or sanding disk on the grindah for smooths. Leave the hand file for your toenails when slippah season comes around....:thumbs:
    :rofl: :lol:
     
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