Get that dirt outta there, for one.... Even with treated lumber. Minimum 2' o.c. with 2x decking. 5/4 decking boards would require no less than 16" o.c. They just can't hold up without deflection over 16". Are those piers in your drawing?
That'll buff out! So it looks like those wood and (and not quite as importantly) steel beams are actually supported by the ground on the left side of the picture. Looks like the wood beams are a couple stacked 2x4 nailed to the top of the 4x6 (?). The bottom beam doesnt look to be one continous piece from your picture. It would be great to get something, anything under that lower beam to get it off of direct contact with the soil, like Eric said. I have a "deck" built by my FIL that wasn't done right either. I plan on removing the deck in about 5 years so I just replaced some of the deck boards, repaired a few joists and got some concrete block under the joists to limp along for a while. To the right of the picture, are the beams supported by a ridge beam resting on top of a couple posts (like Eric asked)? Was the 2x6 decking covered by plywood then itself covered by indoor/outdoor carpet? Are you looking at doing the same? It definitely could use a complete gut job but I bet that isn't in the cards for this project. Good news is that anything you will do will make this a better deck.
Eric VW & schlot ... No as far as I can tell there are no piers. My drawings do not contain them either. But I have thought of them. The wood 4x4" or by 6" that are setting on top of each other is setting on the ground as far as I can tell. Yes, it was covered with Plywood (as a bandaid to cover the weak spots about 4 years ago)(the Carpet was there to cover the plywood.) If I get my way, the carpet will not go back on with the new wood. But not my call, can only do soo much. Yes, a complete redo is ideal...but not necessarily realistic... I've got about $200 to 250 to work with...
I completely understand man. It is what it is. I know you're doing your best for her. If no piers I'd try to block under your new beams to elevate them off the ground. If it's practical it might be nice to do the same under the existing wood beams. If you block under the new beams every 6' you could get away with using a 2x6 as a joist there also. I'd love to see that carpet go away too. As you know it only keeps the area under the deck from drying out. Hope this helps.
That is in rough shape. The steel beams will hold the load(probably have for 30+ years from looks of things) Scabbing that thing back together for 2-300 is a long shot new 2x6x16'PT run ~$11 down here. 2x6 joists splitting the gap in the steel will work but over that span will be bouncy just go 2x8 Doing work for family on "budgets" is frustrating to say the least - just from the pictures 800-1200 material is what I'd tell them to budget
Update: slow and steady right.... Anyways here's the start of the deck. We are still trying to do this as cheapest as possible. So I'm recycling some 6x6's that I found on under the interstate bridge in a dump off about 7 years ago... I figured I'd find a use one day... Well nows the time I guess... I figured that I'll stab somethings through those to stabilize them. Then I'm going to run 2x's across the top of the metal I-beams and carriage bolt them together. So that I can run 2x6's across the top. We are ending up going 4 ft less in length than the original deck. Any words of advice before it's too late?
from the looks of that right I-beam you're going to have headaches with leveling the whole structure, looks twisted This is what happens when people trade the cost of free labor for the price of materials I'd convince them the scabbing in with the steel is more expensive and kick them over or cut and scrap them and just build a new frame on pavers or poured sonotubes. Consider drilling or torching holes in those I-beams yet?
Yep... But if I want a access to a pool near the house... ... Cause she doesn't have any one else to do it...... Anyways its leaning a bit but will be up righting it before I get things locked down. I wish I could take them out and do it correctly... But that's not in the bank ... So you seem to be concerned with drilling through the I-Beams? Am I missing something? Is it hard metal? I'm planning only putting a few bolts through each one. Please fill me in...
Use treated 2x on top of the I beams...drilling through the top flange of the I beam to secure the 2x works fine. The 6x6 supported that often on concrete block looks fine for loading. Obviously this structure is not frost free and it will move with frost action in the spring to some degree, whereas the house won't. What's the distance between each beam (steel or wood) again? 2'? If so using 2x6 deck boards may have a little extra flex to them but it shouldn't be bad. The beams maybe be fun to drill through depending on the flange thickness. If you have a torch you may try burning a few holes also. Every 4' should be fine for this. Sorry I didn't get back sooner to you Chvymn99 ...bad schlot bad!
I know they have a concrete pad under them... But it's been there for 15 years... Maybe the kept it from shifting so much, since the weight was minimal?
No biggie, schlot ... schedules can't always give time for everything... Yes roughly 2 ft but the 6x's lesson it by a bit. I'll be taking my drill and drill bits down in the next day or so to test it out. I've drilled the beams at work and haven't had much issue...plenty of lube and slow steady does it. As far as movement, the main structure was there for 15 years. Can't speak much beyond that information... If it settled it was minimal...
Just the time and material in drill bits and carriage bolts - depends on how many holes and the material hardness Have you run a board/string line level across all three to see how much leveling you'll need to do.... You obviously had the patience to get the blocks under the 6x6's - so forge on my friend, I'm feeling for you
as far as the twisted beam goes, shim the low side as you bolt it run your deck boards and only attach on the high side DO NOT put a seam on the twisted beam it will be magnified.
Well pretty much finished it. Thanks for all the tips guys... I think it turned out pretty good, hopefully it'll hold together...
Well if weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck.. .... The pool decided to get a hernia over the week, with all the rain we got... I guess I'll be repairing it here in the near future.......
