what's wrong with the picture(sort of)?

Definitely a case of the leaky door gasket, check the one around the glass while you are at it

 

I tried the dollar bill test around the door and it seemed to be OK. The glass from what I could see is somewhat discolored in one bottom corner, it could be the culprit. I'll shop around for replacement gaskets and get it done...Thx!

 

Will these gaskets work; http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/i...Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I5541103?Ntt=stove+gasket and http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/i...Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I5541112?Ntt=stove+gasket

I need 3/8 inch for door and 1/4 inch for glass. The pellet vendors ask a lot more for them.

 

Those are the sizes for my P68. Check the manual, but I would think that they are the same. Got mine at a local hardware store that carries alot of wood stove supplies. Cant remember for sure, but couldn't have been more than 10 bucks max, including the cement.

 

OK, gaskets done but still no increase of heat. I've ordered a new control board, exhaust fan motor, fan blade & hopper gasket seal. Hopefully I will have a chance tomorrow to install all the above after I do a cleaning. I've been burning McFeeters SWD and my glass is quite dirty(black). I'm crossing on my fingers everything goes well and live happily after.

 

hmm...not the CB, fan blade or the hopper gasket....could have a combi fan slowing down tho......is your intake damper swinging freely? If using outside air, have you checked the intake path all the way thru to the outside?

 

My CB is slowly going south, same as the exhaust fan and the hopper gasket is showing its age(original). OAK looks good, I even tried without. I'll double check the damper as it was ok when I connected the OAK.

 

What are the symptoms of a BG slowly going south? Interested as I recently had a possible CB hiccup but seems OK now.

 

Are you guys referring to a "CB" as the combustion blower, or control board?

And what's a "BG"?

 

"BG" was a typo........

I thought he was referring to Control Board (that was the issue I had recently-but resolved it by cleaning the pots)...that didnt make sense to me as to "slow death" . Combustion Blower-now THAT makes sense, but the combustion blower and exhaust blower are one in the same.

 

Exhaust fan staying on forever. Not the ESP, tried a new one with same results. Stove goes into shut down mood but fan won't shut off. Tried the feed rate to control ash overflow and no response to adjustment. Could be control pots not responding.

 

Is it just the exhaust fan?

I had the issue of all motors running in the off position. Cleaned the pots buy turning them aggressively 50-60 times each and resolved the issue for now. Hopefully permanent. If all stays normal for this heating season, I may take the board out this summer and try to replace the pots.

 

Dude, I really like that stove you have. It would be a contender if I were to put in a second stove.

 

Checked the air damper and it's functioning as it should. I did a draft test and got -0.5. I've been burning Isabella softwood pellets and have better heat. It has been extremely cold outside that the dino furnace is starting to act up, suspecting fuel is starting to gel as the fuel pump is starting to be noisy at times. I did a full cleaning again as the weather let off a bit and I retried to loosen my exhaust fan from the shaft with heat & PB Blaster. I broke another Allen key in the process. I just wanted to loosen it up & be ready to remove the exhaust motor later. With the furnace acting up, I didn't want to take a chance to do the switch of exhaust motor in case something goes wrong. As I was turning the pellet stove back on, It blew a fuse! I tried again and another fuse popped but this time I seen a spark. It was the distribution fan wiring which moved when I was checking out the exhaust fan wiring route. Something almost went wrong just by been nosy to see what the future job awaiting for me. All is OK now, Here's a present pic on the fire and the stove is cranked to the max to fight against these artic vortexes. The inside the door as been free of creosote so the new gaskets have done some good.

 

Now the stove stop working, no heat! I get home and exhaust fan still running but no fire??? I try the test mode and the auger isn't turning?? I take the chain off and try again, still not turning?? I take the auger drive out to bench test. Hard to turn, OK now what?? I disassemble the motor bearing and was stiff. Cleaned and lubricate the bearing with penetrating oil and now turns freely. Restart the stove and go for late lunch. Now stove pop a fuse again, ggrr! Recheck the wiring and added electrical tape around my distribution fan wiring and fire it up again. So far stove is still purring. When things go wrong, they go wrong all at once! Come on winter, call it quits before I loose patience. Meanwhile outside snowing to about a foot and my plow truck is behaving BAD. Enough ranting and time for a brew & warmth!

 

I had one of those days Tuesday, but for me it was stuff at work, not at home.

Grab a beverage of choice (or two, three, four) and hope things get better.

 

Good thing I'm handy with my hands otherwise I would be in a hell of a jackpot. It's -27c(-17f)at this moment and the stove as never run this hot before. The auger stops for about 4 seconds and back on it goes. I just hope it holds up through this never ending winter. The princess wouldn't approve the upstairs installation but I have been contemplating to temporary replace the Harman for the rest of the winter

 

REPLACE THE HARMAN?! NEVER!

sounds like youre on the right track.......bench test everything, hook every motor up to a pigtail and see how it runs....make sure they don't run intermittently, as they should run full out hooked to line voltage.....if they stutter, stick, or stop, there ya go, that's yer issue.

have you pulled the slide plate? Does it have a residue on it? (sticky stove syndrome)
does anything change if you just touch any of the knobs (bad potentiometer)- may need to replace board

turning the auger by hand might be quite difficult anyhow, depending upon direction of turn....make sure you are turning for feed, rather than reversing the auger....which can jam pellets at the back of the helix, mking it hard (if not impossible) to turn.......