Lol, hazard fraught couldnt be closer to the truth. Ive often wondered what was trying to kill me more, the truck or the junk tools.
Got the new pump on today. I did go with the ruggemade kit... kit sucked. No hardware included. Oh well. So I went from about a 32 second no load cycle time with the 8 gpm. to a 18 second no load cycle time with the 13gpm. I did notice that it takes a second to do work on the second stage... and that the sheer liquid movement is lugging the motor a bit while traveling.... is it possible/wise to bump the motor rpm up a bit? Change the pressure output on the pump?
Sometimes there is a screw that will dictate how far the linkage will/can move. May be able to turn such a screw and gain a few rpms. Apologies, I'm not familiar with your particular animal there. The Vanguard vtwins have such a screw, as do the Hondas. Pull that gas tank and the throttle lever shroud off and have a look see. There will be a throttle "arm" somewhere under there connecting the carb to the governor. A stem out top of carb is hooked to throttle butterfly on carb. Look for an adjuster screw somewhere around the stem...it acts as a "stop" for the butterfly. If it has, back off 1-2 turns and see how it does. I have never had much luck with governors...maybe it's just me.
Well, to truly understand what's happening in the system, you're gonna need a few items that will prob cost more than you'd like to spend. A couple fittings and a pressure gauge would go a long ways tho. You need to know if there is something restricting fluid flow, which could cause excessive heat in the system. Or if the engine just ain't got it. If you have a tach, and yes, a chainsaw tach will work fine, check the rip 'ems at wide open throttle. You should be able to turn that little Briggs up to 3600 rpm as long as the pump can handle it too. I can't see a 6.5hp engine having too much trouble with a 13 gpm pump. Any chance your valve had a flow rating on it?
took the tank off, the adjustment on the governor was a series of holes in the control arm where a spring fits.... i had to make a new hole. Now running about 3650 rpm no load, then falls to 3450 under load. Much better. My last question on this project. What is the hottest i want the hydraulic system to work at. Its getting toasty, hot enough i dont want to leave my hand on the cylinder for more than about3 seconds..... I have an IR temp gun i plan to use later today.
I'm seeing 212-260* looking at a Parker hose selection chart. My splitter's fluid will get pretty warm sometimes, but never enough for me to become concerned. Last thing you need is a nice shower of high pressure boiling oil though. Interested to see what temps its making.
I've never taken temps of the old didier when it's warmer outside and in splitting but the cap on the tank whistles at times. It's like a tea pot. Lol. It's got a small tank, and the splitter has been doing this for years. So I never bother caring.