Splitter pump upgrade.

I thinking that the majority of hydraulic pumps are to be turned clockwise as viewed from the shaft end....could be entirely wrong on that one. But look and see if the shaft is slightly offset from dead center, if so thats the primary gear that pressurizes oil passing between its teeth and the pump housing on one side and at the same time turns the driven gear to pressurize the oil between the teeth of the gear and the inner surface of the pump housing on the opposing side of the pump. So turning the shaft by hand you can visualize whats happening internally to move oil from the inlet to the outlet.

Most high capacity pumps have larger suction ports and smaller outlet ports...and if you have dual inlets (or a pump with three unmarked ports) you can just about be positive the two on one side are both suction ports which allow the pump to be used in either direction. Kinda like that cute girl you dated in high school...and you later found out she went either way. ...well, maybe not like that at all, but we needed a little levity here.....

Some of these smaller capacity two stage pumps probably have or at least could have the same size inlets and outlets. And most should be either tagged when bought new or possibly marked in the casting if you're lucky.

Oh...and I too am not an engineer nor do I play one on TV. I'm just a plain old country boy with a tractor, a couple chainsaws and a welder.....and I enjoy using all of them...albeit not too good (by professional standards anyway).

Oh, and you guys are killin' me with the cranium drainium. Funny stuff man.

 

Tank size may become an issue with too big of a pump.
Heat and cavitation.
I just bought a pump for a Rolloff truck from precisionfluidpower.com. These guys were the bomb and i had my pump less than 36 hrs after ordering.
There's a request quote feature on their site where you can enter your pump part # and request a larger GPM and they will match up a bigger GPM with the same physical dimensions/bolt pattern/shaft size of your current pump.

 

Cranium geranium?

 

Raining pretty hard here now. Going to get at some pics later. Im really digging all of the helpfull input.

 

Great explanation....here I stand, as said before, bowing with hat in hand. Thats a much better and exacting description of what happens inside the two stage pump than the less than technical and rudimentary description I was given many years ago as a lay person talking to a pump salesman. I will commit this to memory as the 'go to' information for the internal operation when the need arises again. This certainly makes a whole lot more sense. Again, awesome description.

Admittedly, I am not a slow mechanic nor am I a fast mechanic...BUT however, I AM a half-fast mechanic. Now repeat the last portion quickly.....

 

Sorry for the delay guys here are the pics.....

It looks like the rotation is clockwise per the recoil direction.

The crank looks like .75" with a .25" key way.

The pump looks like a .50" shaft with a .0125" keyway.

Bolt spacing hole to hole on the motor is about 2.5" and on the pump side of the bracket is 2.0"

Am I on track with this stuff?

 

I think ill be going with This Kit. My only hang up is how to get the coupler off of the engine. Its pretty stuck. 3-Jaw?

 

Measurements all look good to me. .0125 = 1/8.

I'd say you are barking up the right tree with the kit.

3 jaw should work fine. Do those couplers have a rubber dampener?

 

Mine doesnt.... the kit has a knock off love joy.

 

I'll second the Kroil!

 

Kroil is the absolute best stuff there is.

Now I see the kit you want to get, fits the Hondas and chonda. With your Briggs being an 'Merican motor, you'll have to verify it will work.

 

Bolt spacing measures out right.

 

That's what matters.

 

Bearing seperator? That's new to me.