I second that motion but say more bar. If you are not a production faller, or cutting firewood to the tune of a few hundred cords a year, then running a modded saw is just because you have an itch that needs scratched. To those guys, time is money, and the uptick in production is well worth any trade-offs in running costs and equipment longevity. And if you don't fit either one of those categories, the cost of running the saw is probably peanuts anyways. Back in my dealership days, a pro arborist came in and bought two MS200Ts. Just walked in, told me what he needed and we plopped them on the counter. When I announced his total, which was over $1000, the customer next to him just shook his head and said he couldn't fathom paying nearly $600 for such a small saw. The arborist smiled and said, "No worries man, these will be paid for by noon and I'll still have money for lunch."
I'm aiming for a 32" bar. I know I see that 7, 8, 9 pins comes up in several different conversations. But sprockets what is it ?
That's the part that chain wraps around on the saw side? So do you have to do anything special on the tip side? Special chain? I know rookie questions. But I'm a learning rookie....
The bar tip sprocket and the clutch sprocket (saw side) must match the chain pitch. They both must be 3/8" or .404 depending on the chain you intend to run. (Most likely 3/8" ) The size of the clutch sprocket in relation to the bar tip does not matter.
When running a larger cc saw with a shorter bar, some folks will run a larger # of pins sprocket on to speed the rpm. Down side is it will decrease torque. But again, when running a short bar you have torque to spare. I believe it uses an "E clip" with a rim sprocket so changing back & forth should take less than 5 minutes to do. While you have it apart, it is a good idea to slide the clutch drum off & look for any cracks. (The chain brake has to be off to remove the clutch drum.) Be careful to not drop the bearing.
Chevymn99- PM me your Addy and I will send you a new 3/8 8 pin rim sprocket? All you need to replace it is a simple pair of needle nose pliers, if you don't have the proper tool to remove the E clip.
That friggin e-clip can be a bastard to remove if it wears into the washer a bit. It makes it's own recess that makes it tough to pull up and out. Keep your hand over it if possible 'cause when it comes off, it's usually in a hurry.
Here's the 660. I doubt there's many 460s out there faster than that 660. I wouldn't run anything less than 40:1 in my personal saws. After the 066 crank coming apart with 50:1 that Randy had ported the $.20 a gallon of gas saved for oil isn't worth a bottom end and possible top end replacement. It would only take about 1200 gallons of mix to pay for a bottom end rebuild and topend. Ported 460
Thanks for posting that video. Theres just something about all that power at your finger tips. Thanks again.
Is that 660 stock? I heard removing the air filter cover was good for at least 50%. And that ported 066 was running 80:1 when it bought the farm.
I meant mdavlee's 660, which I'm pretty sure is also ported. But I didn't know yours was too. The muff mod and porting will definitely address the shortcomings of a stock 660.
I think that's what he meant? He bought mdavlee's 660? That's the way I read it? If so, you got a mean saw.
32" full comp and 28" full comp for the 460. He bought that one from me. I run cover less to keep the filters clean longer.
I was confused about who/what saw too! But the video kind of throws a wrench in the idea that a 460 will be as fast as a 660 in the smaller stuff.
