First Fire In New Stove Guidelines Please

Oh, not too mention the 90 in the stove pipe and the 90 (tee) in the chimney which I have been told reduces it more.

 

No, that was not it at all, I have been trying to tell you but YOU won't listen that the wood was dry. Now I have the data to back up my statements!

 

Now why would I want a non EPA stove; especially since non EPA stove will no longer be manufactured; which uses more wood and produces more pollution? I could have purchased several non EPA stoves from Northern Tools at half the cost of the one purchased. No, what I need to do is to work at correcting the problem I have with the draft, and the first thing would be having the required chimney height.

 

Kimberly sounds like the moisture meter is dispelling the wet wood idea. Might be a good idea to check its accuracy on a fresh sapling split
It still wouldn't hurt to try some dry pallet wood to see if you can get the door shut on a hot stove.

Does the stove have a pipe tap fitting for hooking up a manometer? you could cob something together with some aquarium air tank hose, or any transparent tubing and use a tape measure..

Just an aside on the gum - it does smoke more than other woods, even seasoned, it's the only wood I have to ease the door open with to reload - and I rarely have a draft issue due to ambient temps

 

they will light off well on a hot coal load, or under a pile of kindling with a good draft.
Stick a blow torch on one and see resulted char wood go out in a few seconds after removing the flame

 

Well then "dry wood girl", I congratulate you on the moisture of your wood!

Now with all the experience and time you have accrued to wood burning, you'll be a regular fountain of knowledge!!

I humbly apologize for the decades of wood burning, cutting, processing, splitting, stacking, etc. etc. that I acquired thinking I could actually share some of that knowledge to benefit others. My bad!

I stand at your service with your now almost a week and a half of burning experience!

Burn safe!

(Are you my ex-wife by the way???)

 

X2

 

Congrats on all of your successes so far, Kimberly! You've already taken on more diy work than I did with my install. You should be proud. Yes, you do have a few more obstacles to overcome it seems, but you're already aware of those, so just give it a little time. Someone that has made it this far will be successful.

 

Looking at the picture of your stove, I might suggest you tap that lower hinge pin for the door back into place before it falls out. Even push the top plate with the holes in it back into place. That might help straighten out the air wash system.

 

Maybe he could come do mine, after he fixes his? I don't worry too much about it, but it does bother others in the household.

 

I think gravity will probably keep it in there pretty good

 

No top plate....those are burn tubes.

 

Same thing happened to the 13 of mine. Only thing, mine was raised about 1" or a bit more! No worry, still had room and even if it did come all the way out, the door wouldn't fall off. Never even noticed it, Discovered it when I changed the gasket on the door.

I believe that is a ceramic board on top of secondary burn tubes that you are seeing.

 

The hinge pin on my VZ rides up like that. If you pound it down, the door squeaks when you open/close it, until the pin rides right back up to where it was...where it stays...if you leave it alone.

 

Same squeaking results with the 13. Put a little WD on it..very little, mind you!