Optimizing a Craftsman while saving for a "real" saw

I have a Craftsman branded Poulan 42cc with an 18" bar. That saw works fine while you save for a better one. The only issue with that saw of mine is that it won't restart hot. I have read others online with similar complaints. Never understood it.

 

Here's a spike I put on this REAL TREE version, it will fit both the strat and non strat saws, always check the intake manifold holding bolts, they tend too loosen on these saws I've found, also, opening up the outlets on the muffler helps, and yep, a good sharp chain.

 

I guess I went to bed too early last night and missed all of the fun. Thank you for all of the advice, so far, and no worries about the drifting. I should have known better and added the pics with the original post. I have already hazed myself and will know for the future. I have added some pics below, and please excuse the condition of the saw......again, I have already hazed myself. I think that I will hold off on the spikes, even though they do add a nice zombie apocalypse touch. I will inspect the bar further to make sure that there is not any crazy wear, or bending. I looked into the Oregon 91VXL062G and was going to go with that one, but was concerned about the greater chance for kickback. I am still new, so I wanted to make sure that it would not run wild if I switched to a more aggressive chain. The pics of the chain are not great, but I am picking up a file setup tomorrow. Thanks again for all of the help.

 

I have had similar issues, as well as it stays running when I set it down, but when I pick it back up and grab the throttle, it dies. I am guessing that it is either the fuel mixture, or more likely, I need to tune the carb.

 

Dont beat yourself up. Saws get dirty. That chain needs to be sharpened at minimum. Great information about kickback here:
http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G1959

If it were me I'd go with the 91VXL062G and just be aware of what causes kickback otherwise the chainsaw will operate the same as befor just cut much faster.

 

Frawleys has pretty good prices on chain. To the problem of the saw dieing after a period of idle it probably not the mix. Sounds like the carb is a little out of adjustment.

 

That chain looks pretty bad. The shark fin bumpers are a big detriment to cutting. I'd sharpen it and store away for when you want to cut real dirty - eg: stump. And buy 91VXL. I like Frawley's, Lone Star and Left Coast Supplies - all can have good deals. And I'd turn L screw 1/8 - 1/4 turn CCW to richen. I'd give H screw 1/16 - 1/8 turn CCW just for good measure. And Idle/TAS screw should be in - CW - till chain just barely doesn't spin.

 

I think that I will order a chain, or two, from Frawley's. I have read lots of good things about the Oregon 91VXL062G and think I will give one a try. While waiting for that to arrive to my little piece of mountain heaven, I will pick up a sharpener and clean up the saw and chain. I will post a couple pictures of the "after", now that you have all seen the "before". I want to see if adjusting the carb will fix that issue, as well. Any recommendations on replacement brands for spark plug and fuel filters? The manual calls for a Champion, but did not say anything about the fuel filter. I will blow out the air filter and get the body nice and clean, too.

 

Another chain option would be stihl ps/ps3. The ps3 is a safety chain. It's the best cutting 3/8lp available today as long as your cutting clean wood.

 

A muffler mod and tune would do that saw a lot of good for about $0. Surprised nobody has mentioned that yet.

I use my bucking spikes mostly for setting a notch when felling....not going to do you a lot of good on that saw.

If the bar isn't trashed just run it.

Get a good chain. And learn how to properly shape it and recognize when it is dull. Plenty of reading on both around here.

 

I operated one of those (in Poulan regalia) for a little while, now I am using its slightly bigger brother, the PP5020AV. I cut all my wood with it, and it works for me for now, though I am always looking for an upgrade at the right price.

A good and sharp chain will make it feel like a different saw. Don't bother with the spikes or bar, save your dough for your intended upgrade.

 

I am not sure that muffler can be opened significantly, that is if it is like my 5020, which is basically an empty can.

Tuning might help if it needs it, but I think most of the small Poulans come pretty close to tuned correctly from the factory.

 

In the spirit of some earlier posts, I am going to hijack this thread, ever so slightly. As I am getting many cost-saving tips from this thread, I am starting the process of narrowing down the pool of potential new saws to procure. My first inclination is towards the Stihl MS271 Farm Boss. I like the idea of the tried and true company, and I think that this saw will fit right into my plans for usage. To give you an idea, I just started heating my home with wood, and immediately became addicted. The area that we are moving to will allow me to continue this new found passion. I have to figure that my household will go through about 2 cords a year, but I have to build up my seasoning rotation, as well as the fact that in all likelihood I will have to supply my wife's family, as well. They go through 1.5-2 cords a year, as well. So, if my calculations are correct, I could potentially need to cut 8-10 cords the first year I have the new saw and run about 4-5 cords a year after that. I think that this grade of saw is about right, but let me know if I have grossly misjudged anything. Thanks for the help.

 

What is the average size of tree your cutting? Budget?

 

What's your father in law run for a saw?

 

Sure it can...and the empty can only makes it easier. Just open up the outlet hole a bit and/or add another.

 

BTW - when I went to a "non-safety" chain, I was wondering if that would be a mistake. I mean I love my wife, I like my body parts, etc. But it is a non-event, nothing to worry about really. Any chainsaw with any chain deserves respect, just give it what it deserves.

 

All we really have here is pinion pine and juniper. The biggest section I have had to cut couldn't be more than 14" across. I want to keep it under $400, and would definitely go used if it is still in good shape. I am going to keep an eye on some rental places that sell their older, but still maintained saws.

 

They don't cut their own. They currently pay $200 for a cord, and since it is all softwood around here, that goes pretty quick. They have also fallen on some hard times, so I am trying to save them some money, both in heating costs and in wood costs.