Three bond 1194 must use husqvarna in some models but i am not 100% sure Dirko HT is the top gasket maker END OF STORY
The best penetrating oil I have ever used is aerokroil. Kinda pricey, but is used in most large industrial gas turbine outage crews. Tried a can and love it. for a good set of gloves look up knuckleheads
I've made small work platforms out of a 2 x 4 or 4 x 4's with a plank screwed into them. They are set in my bench vise and give me a raised platform. Instead of leaning over the bench working on something, this can bring it up a foot higher. The plank can be cut to any size you want. It is also sacrificial for drilling into or cutting into it with a jigsaw.
I apologize in advance for no pics... This is more of a chainsaw tip rather than a shop tip, but I was pretty excited tonight when it worked! I had a saw that was passing the vacuum test 100%, but had a slow leak on the pressure test. A little listening around told me the decompression valve (a.k.a. sissy button) was the culprit. I inspected the valve and discovered that it had some degradation on the seating surface of the plunger rod. I disassembled the valve and chucked the stem in my foredom and ran it slowly while pressing the tapered end up against some scotch brite. After it appeared the damage was mostly gone I put it all back together and tried again. Still bled out, but more slowly. A couple "rinse and repeat" cycles of that got it to a VERY slow leak, but still not up to par with my standard. I was trying to figure out how to avoid buying a new decomp valve and it occurred to me what to do... I slid the stem back into the housing (outer part with the threads for the cylinder) and then chucked the end (top) of the stem back into the foredom leaving room so the outer housing had plenty of axial play. I don't have any valve seating compound which would have been ideal, so I put some polishing compound on the tapered seat and applied light pressure (imaging 'closing' the decomp valve) while slowing rotating the stem. I applied compound a few times until I saw a nice 'perfect' surface on both seats. I thoroughly cleaned everything up, reassembled, and put the valve back on the saw. Help pressure perfectly! I've always just replaced leaking decomp valves, but now I have a potential fix which in this case saved me $20-$30!
Nice work Beau, I usually just "ditch the $itch"....decomp bolt plugs are a few bucks each by the dozen. Just toss 'em. (My ported 385 not withstanding)
So he was lapping his docomp valve?? I read it but did not pay any attention, your right it seats against itself not the cyl! Yea I would toss that bad boy!! I had one fall apart into a ms390 and lock the saw causing a tear down. No damage though. It was the original stihl. Made it like 8 years.
Although that's a perfectly rational line of thinking, my completely irrational OCD won't let me do that. Then there would just be this awkward hole in the top shroud for no reason!
You made me think about this for a few minutes ( and yes my head now hurts from that) ...I wonder if the Stihl decarbonizer will work as well. I'll soak the next one that gives me grief and post back. Maybe just taking a torch to the tip and burning it some ? like a clogged muffler screen >
