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A chain sharpening rig for a rook..

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by LinkedXJ, Nov 15, 2015.

  1. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    Yep, I use it all the time to set the rakers on my milling chains to .035. That one is on the end, so it rests on the previous cutters instead of in between. I try to line it up flush with the very tip of the working corner.

    I know what you're saying though. The Oregon one always rests on the next and previous cutters, and can help you 'fix' a chain where the left and right cutters aren't the same length, so that will cut straight. It's more important to have the lengths the same with the other tool. But you might as well make them the same anyway; you're not going to get anymore life out of them or anything keeping one side longer.
     
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  2. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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  3. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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  4. Shawn Curry

    Shawn Curry

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    In your top 2 pics, the cutters are dull. Judging from the side view in the 3rd pic, either you've hit some metal with that chain, or its been in need of sharpening for a long time.

    You'll want to take some more off; the whole folded over part needs to go. Get yourself a new chain to compare with. One of the main things you need to learn is what a sharp cutter looks like. The cutting edge shouldn't reflect any light.

    image.jpg
     
  5. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    That specific chain did meet a chain link fence last time i used it, well before i had sharpened it and used it the other day.

    I'll try er again tomorrow and post some pictures.


    Thanks for the help man
     
  6. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Your chain is semi chisel so you won't have the point in the corner that is in Shawn's pic. You'll have to take it back a bit to get pass the damage from the fence. So you'll have to reset the depth gauges to get it to feed right.
     
  7. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    So i am essentially just filing down the top edge of the depth gauges?
     
  8. concretegrazer

    concretegrazer

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    Yes. Its best to use a gauge like was posted just a bit earlier. You'll eventually get into the bumper on the chain in your pic as well.
     
  9. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    10-4

    Thank ya fellas
     
  10. Machria

    Machria

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    Anyone ever try the $38 grinder at Harbor Freight? I was there yesterday and happened to notice they are selling a chain grinder for $38. Can you even get a proper wheel for $38???

    I would imagine that grinder is junk like most the rest of the crap in that store.... but worth a check.... ;)
     
  11. cnice_37

    cnice_37

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    I have one, only use it for rocked chains. I hand file mostly, that grinder isn't too good IMO.
     
  12. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    Bada Bing bada boom


    Ran the saw today since going back with the timberline and removing more material.

    This chain cuts better then it did when it was new.


    Amazazing stuff.

    I dig it
     
  13. Machria

    Machria

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    Bada bing in Illinois?? Isn't that for NJ, Ny??? ;)
     
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  14. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    Never sharpened a chain?? Not even hacked up one freehand with the tiny oregon file holder?
     
  15. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor

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    I have a grinder and extra chains. Saves me lots of time which I dont have much of these days. Sure its not as sharp as a good hand filer. But I am not an excellent handfiler AND I am cutting firewood in the woods not cookies and cants on a stand.
     
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  16. BDF

    BDF

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    Just a quick update: Used a chain sharpened with the Pferd- cs-x system on a Stihl 211 for the first time today and I have to say, it was like using a different saw. Very fast and aggressive but not too much load for the saw. It is the stock Stihl chain that came with the saw and it never cut as well as it does now even when brand new; I think the Pferd tool sets the rakers a bit lower than the chain was originally.

    So I am very happy with the Pferd tool; it is reasonable in price, uses standard files (other than the raker file but that should last a long time), is almost effortless to use and takes very little skill or 'trickery' to use it.

    Brian
     
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  17. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    Cut through about half a cord today, my chain is still mowing through the wood.


    Need to swap out my chains so i can sharpen the others ive got hanging up.
     
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  18. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    I replied to your vid on the tube. :yes:

    These are my growing pains when I first bought mine. I was cutting in a very rocky area, rocks and boulders everywhere. So the first few times I came upon a damaged cutter, I just kept the pawl the same and tried to use the same technique. Mistake.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    They are pretty old pics and I've learned my lesson. Small "bites" and remove all burrs with a round hand file. ;)
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2015
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  19. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    Yeah I ease the pawl into the chain so its not taking out a big bite.
     
  20. LinkedXJ

    LinkedXJ

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    Well...

    I got about 28 chains out of my first carbide.
    Hadnt sharpened any chains in a very long time..
    Literally ran out of sharp chains.

    So today i mounted up the timberline.
    Got 1 1/2 chains done between 2 carbides.
    Carbide on the left there in the photo literally only got to clean up 5 cutters before it popped randomly.


    IMG_20160718_160733.jpg IMG_20160718_221811.jpg


    So... My Timberline is for sale.
    Look for it in the for sale section here shortly.
     
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