nc-13 door gasket

finally got around to replacing it today and lo and behold, it wasn't the same size as what was listed in the parts manual that I had found online.
I read where it takes a 5/8 rope and that is what I had bought. The rope I removed was a larger size. I replaced it anyway and have never seen the handle "bottom out" as it did once I closed the door all the way. Wonder what it was I missed?
I will be making another trip to a hardware store where the gasket is sold by the foot as opposed to buying a replacement kit.

 

Bought some more door gasket yesterday after work. This seems closer to the correct size but the thing I can't figure out is that they were both in a packet labelled 5/8" rope.
Now, the gasket I removed from the nc-13 (kinda wish I hadn't) feels like it is solid whereas the replacement gasket almost feels like it is a bit hollow.
Are there different types? Solid or hollow core? I know there are flat, oval round etc.
And does the gasket tend to get stiff over time? the old gasket is still flexible, it just feels quite solid as compared to the second replacement gasket I picked up.

 

On thing , you should not stretch the gasket at all , as a mater of fact you should scrunch it together before you cut it and don't stretch it while cementing it on , makes a big difference

 

Dave, the door gaskets from ESW are very dense and hard. Not at all like the Rutland or others.
I tried a Rutland on the 30 last year, and it didn't seal as well, so I went back to the stock gasket.

 

I'm gonna try to remember this when I need to replace the gaskets on my 13!!!

 

Well, good ol Mike came through with the info I needed. It's a 5/8" high density gasket that I will be looking for. Makes perfect sense and of course big thanks to Mike.

 

Yeah, I looked around for a while for the HD stuff, but couldn't find any locally. Got it from ESW.

 

Finally changed out the door gasket this evening. I had removed the door from the 13 and brought it home to the workshop. Currently sitting on top a bench with plywood, three dumbbells and an anvil to keep the gasket pressed while the silicone dries.

 

what kind of gasket cement did you use?

 

The brand is meeco's by red devil and is rated to 2000f. They recommend a 2 hour cure time with the door closed on the wood stove.
Hence, the weights and plywood set-up.

 

Well seasoned, you are not wrong, that is what is recommended. The wood stove is sitting at the cottage while the door is back home where the temp is more suitable for this sort of repair.
The plywood and weight on top of door should simulate the closing of the door against the wood stove. The cottage remains unheated.

 

Sodium silicate

 

I'm never using that Imperial stuff again, so thick I can barely get it out of the tube.
The first time I used it wasn't that bad, when I bought my used stove, I had to replace the gasket but I kind of screwed it up so the next year I replaced it again,, but that one the same brand was very hard to get out of the tube, I wasted some screwing around so, I had to use some from the older tube left over and I had to cut the tube open to get that stuff out.
Squeezed it out with a clamp.
Now I have a couple of spots coming loose a little that need re cementing

 

I'm fairly crazy, but prolly wudda just bought another tube.