Wood Splitter Build - "The Don"

I went and priced 1" grade 8 bolts with top lock nuts for the slide... $70! And that is with my 57% school discount! Yikes, oh well, I guess they will probably never break, fingers crossed.

I also found out that my local Carquest will not only make my hoses for me, they want me to bring the splitter in when I'm done and they will clock all the fittings as well. Sweet! That is a load off my mind.

 

Wait. Please explain. $70 for how many? Is that the bolts, nuts, and lock washers? What the ?

 

what length bolts? how many do you need? I assume you are talking about prevailing torque lock nuts? Like this: http://www.reglover.com/desktop/reg/productsView.php?order_number=00000AA1301001881



I attached a top view image showing what I would do for the baffles. Make them about 10" high. Oil should come in on one side (ie lower left) and exit on the other, ie (upper right)

 

Yeah, that was my reaction too. They are 1" diameter 3 1/2" long grade 8 bolts and I need 14 of them. It will just be the bolts and the nuts that Dan linked to. The best deal I found was at our local Fastenal.

 

Dan, thanks! That drawing really helps! I just have to figure out where to put my suction strainer. here's a pic

 

Here are my hydraulic components. 22gpm two stage pump and Prince USA log splitter valve.

 

Here is my motor. A Honda GX 390, 13 hp. I wasn't planning on getting a new motor but to order the individual components I wanted was only $100 cheaper than to buy the logsplitter kit that P&J offers.

 

Here is my filter and filter housing. 10 micron and can flow up to 70gpm. I was amazed at the size of this thing, especially for a splitter.

The filter with the pipe nipple in it will function as my breather. It has some small holes drilled in the side for easier airflow. On the right is my pump to motor adapter. It is cast aluminum and very heavy duty. I'm glas I got it as it will maintain perfect alignment with the two shafts.

Here are the various weld in bungs for attaching all the plumbing. On the right is the Magnaloy jaw coupler . Below is a shot of it assembled. Very large and heavy duty.

 

Here is he axle I'll be using. Where you can see the bolts on the brackets it measures 4'. I had it on a little single bale trailer and it took the weight with no problems. New bearings and seals for the hubs and some sandblasting she should be good as new.



Here is a shot of the 3/8" thick wear plate for the top of the beam. I will weld it securely but leave it so that if I should wear through it I can replace it with a bit of grinding and re-weld.

 

I would think long and hard about greasing the slide. I have 50+ cord through mine and the paint is barely wore. To my way of thinking grease traps the dirt and it will wear faster. I have never seen a splitter with a greased slide.

 

Agred. I'd suggest some graphite paint to help with any initial galls. Just make sure to round any edges before assembling too as this will help a lot. Your slide is long enough grease is really uneeded.




Most farm stores or ag equipment dealers have it.



I painted all four sides of the beam on mine with it.



Over 100 cord through it here. Top naturally wore off and sides are fine. Not planning on a recoat at this point.

 

As a Buyer ( as my profession), I know that while fastenal has everything, they are rarely the best price available (BPA). Do you have a Menard's or fleet farm or any farm supply store around? Wurth Adams, and other's should beat that price.

HTH.

 

Fifelaker and Kevin, those are some good points! Grease does catch a lot of crap and just grind it in. I like the idea of graphite paint because I would like to have something there to avoid galling. I am kinda paranoid about the beam and slide wearing out because that is what happened on the splitter I have now. Granted, it was made in 1979 so I think we all got our money's worth out of it. The real problem lies with the fact you cannot disassemble anything to R&R it without a cutting torch!

I read a manual on a newer splitter where it said to lubricate the slide with ATF every time you split. Interesting...

Horkn, very true, it does pay to shop around. Luckily, RedneckDan has a lead on some! Being a buyer must be an interesting occupation. A lot is riding on good descisions to keep costs down and quality up.

Kevin, By the way, your splitter looks great for that much use! I remember that you painted it but that is holding up like powdercoat! What type of paint was that again?

 

Dan, please educate us some more on the baffles. Making them like you have drawn up, what thickness metal do you suggest? I have some 14 gauge (roughly 3/32) would that work? Would I weld all around the bottom where the baffle and the tank meet to seal it up or can I skip weld it? I've also noticed in pictures of baffles they seem to almost all have small 45* angle notches cut in the lower corners. Do you think I should do that?

Thanks, Andy

 

Almost forgot, I priced sandblasting the axle ($100) so I went to HFT, and got the 40 lb pressurized blaster ($109, been wantneeding one for a while) and will get some pics and report back

 

I used tractor paint from the local Farm store. I did use the optional hardener in it and sprayed it. I did NOT use any primer but I did sandblast everything completely here at home. I don't leave it sitting outside when not in use.

 

14 ga is plenty heavy enough. Doesn't hold any pressure. Skip welding it would be best, less warpage of the tank. The 45 * cut on corners is probably for weld clearnance in the corner. Doesn't really effect the function of the baffle.

 

What was your thinking behind no primer? Not to be mean, just wanting to see the rationale. The results were great.

 

So then it merely channels the flow coming through the tankand not restricting it. Aha! I thought that was probably the reason for the 45* cuts but maybe wondered if it had to do with making sure there was fluid available at all times

 

Money and time mainly. Those who have ever worked on farm equipment can tell you that most everything doesn't get primer from the factory. It's a tool. The more layers you put on the easier it is to chip. As I said, if I let it sit outside in the elements I might have considered primer but I don't even work in the rain with this one and it's stored under roof when not in use. This was sandblasted and painted in the same day, one VERY LONG day. The next day assembled since I used hardener it was ready to go.

It's not a show car, it's a tool.






These pics were taken this morning and it has 3 years on it now.