In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

My Five Year Plan - A Few Questions - Suggestions Welcome

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by HarvestMan, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. TurboDiesel

    TurboDiesel

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    the door opening is about 8" wide, so nothing over that. it is a small firebox, but will last a good while.
    Mine is a cellar dweller so the long burns are out for me as I am pushing it harder to heat the main level.
    otherwise, sherwood is spot on. :yes:
     
  2. firecracker_77

    firecracker_77

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    I think you're off to a great start. I'd cut them small and split them small to speed the drying and make them easily load. It's frustrating when you can't get your wood into the stove and have to set it aside for futher processing to make the pieces fit.
     
  3. bogydave

    bogydave

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    You have a great start to getting ahead.

    Get next years wood CSS ASAP. Sooner it's split & stacked, sooner it starts to season.

    Best for seasoning is off the ground, in a single row in the sun & wind, top covered.
    Smaller will dry faster but with it near 20% already, most any wood type should be ready for next burn season.

    Great pictures :)
     
  4. mr.finn

    mr.finn

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    Welcome to FHC first off, a great site with a wealth of knowledge.
    As far as being ahead, I think you are well on your way. Late in the summer put a cover on that 20-24% stuff and it will be fine.
    I think any of that dead stuff(standing or down) once cut and split should have no problem burning this coming fall.
     
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  5. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    Hey there HarvestMan, it is about time we see some posts by you. Welcome.

    Yes, we have conversed about some of these things already but I have to tell you I love the looks of your wood. That should provide you will some very good heat next winter. I do not see a need to split it smaller. And if you do, then the wood will tend to burn faster even in a Fireview. Actually about the best for us is to split into 3-5" splits (16" long) and also save some rounds in the 4-6" range.

    When loading the Fireview, the best strategy we've found is when loading, shove the coals toward the front of the firebox. In the bottom rear, put one of those rounds or a very large split. Actually if not a round, most of the time we use a square or rectangle split because you can fit is nicely with no coals under or behind it. You will be amazed at the difference this makes in holding a longer fire. Burn the knotty and small stuff during the daylight hours and/or spring and fall.

    How much wood should you figure on? You have it right; figure on what you would normally use and get that much on hand. You probably won't need as much but this is to your benefit as it will just get you to the 3 year plan sooner. However, I do not like the idea of covering with a tarp then uncovering when weather is okay then covering, etc. Once top covered, forget about it. You work hard enough already and that uncovering won't help you enough to even notice a difference.

    Wood 20-25% at this time of the year should be ideal next winter.


    "I have access to dead standing elm and cherry. Should I try to load up on this now and get it css and plan on using this for the upcoming season?"

    My first choice there would be the elm. It will hold a fire longer than cherry. Dead standing elm, especially if bark has fallen off can provide you with excellent firewood for the entire winter. Before this emerald ash borer, we have burned many winters with nothing but dead elm and have gotten along just fine. Yes, we usually have some cherry too but my only flaw with this is that cherry doesn't seem to hold fires long enough.


    "Got tons of OLD dead and down white oak that I am currently working on; much of this is < 25%. Is it reasonable to expect any of it to be ready by next burning season if css in the next month?"

    If you do not think it reasonable to burn that next winter, please let us make some plans and we can probably take care of that nasty stuff for you. It will burn just fine.


    Once again, it is nice to welcome you to this forum and you will love that Fireview.
     
  6. HarvestMan

    HarvestMan

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    Today I cut up some of the 5 to 6 foot pieces I hauled back with my garden cart. I wanted to try cutting from a sawbuck instead of in the woods; somehow I thought this would be easier on the back. I think this is one of those "good in theory" kind of ideas, but in practice it isn't quite so good as I am handling the logs way too much. I'm going to go see if I can locate a peavey with log stand Monday and use that to do all my cutting in the woods so I am only handing the wood once. I did make a quick sawbuck using my workmate, plans are here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Workmate-Sawbuck/

    Also added a new dump cart to my firewood tools collection; as you can see, all my equipment is the high-end stuff.

    Had a lot of time to think while splitting wood. Realized that I only cut firewood in September and end of March thru April (need to avoid bow hunters after September and bugs after April). Hard to get too far head with this schedule, so I decided I would order a couple loads of rounds in May and October to keep the stacking going while I am not cutting.
     

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  7. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    :rofl: :lol:

    You are still doing better then my aged plastic toboggan sled :dex:
     
  8. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    Why, noise?, or danger? Just curious :)
     
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  9. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Yeah I cut up small polls, a whole bunch at a time on my saw buck type deal, it works out real good but the one you have up on there is, in my opinion a little large to be lifting up onto a Sawbuck.
    I tried the log jacks but didn't like them, have to reposition them too often, just cut them three quarter through, and roll them with a Cant hook
     
  10. HarvestMan

    HarvestMan

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    The owners of both properties I have permission to cut on either bow hunt or have friends that bow hunt the properties. I don't want to interrupt their hunts.
     
  11. wildwest

    wildwest Moderator

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    I see!
     
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  12. mr.finn

    mr.finn

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    Who makes those plastic wagons? I want one!!
     
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  13. mywaynow

    mywaynow

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    Split your Elm and Cherry small like you said and stack it loose. Cross stacking with lots of air and you will be in good shape. The White Oak will need time. I would not plan it for the up coming season. I have a pile that was cut over about 1.5 years ago, split over the summer and did not burn well at all when I sampled a few pieces last week. Great wood, but like most great woods, takes time to dry.
     
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  14. mywaynow

    mywaynow

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    Tractor Supply has them for about 99 bucks. Gorilla brand I think? Have one myself and like it a lot Like the Kubota more though:whistle: I also tried the metal garden wagon from the big hardware joints. Ran the wheel bearing and steering couplings right off the piece of junk in two seasons.
     
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  15. HarvestMan

    HarvestMan

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    Yep, TSC: http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/groundworkreg;-heavy-duty-dump-cart-1400-lb-capacity

    It is their store brand called GroundWork and is supposed to be rated to 1400 pounds ... don't think I can get that much wood into it and if I could, don't think I could pull it. I don't know how it will hold up, but I prefer to use these to move my wood from splitting area to stacks and from stacks to garage.
     
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  16. Horkn

    Horkn

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    I NEED one of these! Thanks for the link. It sounds like it could even be used as a trailer behind a tractor or ATV use if driven slowly.
     
  17. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    And courtesy.
     
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  18. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    HarvestMan, if you don't like the sawbuck, do yourself a favor and don't get one of those peaveys or cant hooks with a log stand. In my humble opinion, they are the most useless tool made. Someone gave me one once and it took many, many years just trying to give it away. You can use them if you like but do not expect to save any time or work. They cause extra work and some of that can be back breaking.

    If you'd like to try something simple and easy for cutting in the woods, then just get a cant hook. When you fell a tree, you'll always find spots where you can see daylight under the log. That is where I cut them off. Then simply lay down a couple of small limbs and roll the log onto the limbs. Now it is all up off the ground. Or, just simply cut through the log 3/4 of the way or more; just so you don't hit dirt. Then after making several cuts, roll the log and finish the cuts from the top.

    On the sawbuck, we almost always have one but don't always use it. We use it mostly just on the small limbs. I cut them to length depending on how heavy they will be and most of the time my wife will carry them to the sawbuck. Stack several then cut them. But I would guess about 98% of the cutting we do is like I have advised above. We cut where the tree falls then move the logs to the area we want to split and stack.
     
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  19. HarvestMan

    HarvestMan

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    Thanks for sharing your experience; I'm still trying to figure out what works best. I do know that cutting old downed trees results in more need for chain sharpening than I would like. Usually, I take a shovel with me and dig out under the logs in a couple places to cut them to a size that will allow me to roll them after cutting the top half. It is still a bit of a struggle to move some of them, not sure if I need a cant hook, or just a pry bar that won't bend easily. I did call some Stihl dealers and found the 48 inch log peavey was about $130 and the log stand was $45; that is a bit more than I wanted to spend.

    The sawbuck actually did work pretty good when I used it for logs of a reasonable size; for the bigger logs, I'll just cut them in the woods.
     
  20. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Harvestman, I have found a cant hook is a very useful tool while in the woods. Not only can you lift logs up to cut them, but you can use it to free snagged trees when felling them.