044 question

In this thread; http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/c-a-d-program.11192/page-2#post-289593 , you can see I bought a 10mm 044 a couple days ago. And that I found a cracked carb boot.

What I didn't say is that since I had the saw that far apart, I decided to pull the cylinder because I had been told that the piston had been replaced and sort of suspected that it hadn't and I wanted to rule out anymore surprises. The cylinder looks worn but good with no transfer, but I don't think the piston has been replaced. It shows similar wear to the cylinder with a slight burnished look at the edge of the skirt.

I am thinking of replacing the rings but keeping the piston. Thoughts?

 

Post up a picture of the cylinder, piston, skirt, and ring lands so we can see if its worn and how much carbon may be involved

 

Need pics ? why replace the rings ? was it low on compresion ?

 

Raining here, bored, stuck in the shop, thought I might as well try to learn something, see what others thought.

 

That piston is well worn. I suggest a new piston and a set of Caber rings, delete the base gasket, open the stock exhaust outlet in the muffler some more, and I would just clean up the carbon from the exhaust port and cylinder. Don't forget a new boot for your cracked one. I would also rebuild the carb and swap the fuel line for a new one with a new fuel filter.

When you are done, a healthy diet of good oil @ 32:1, a good tune in the wood and you will have a lifetime of use.

 

Just so you know. Check around. New stihl piston kit prices have dropped on alot of them. I buy oem with the prices now days. Meteor 2nd choice.

I just got a 046 stihl oem piston kit for $44 and change. Meteor was $35-$40. Just saying check your dealers if close.

064 hasnt dropped yet. But thinking 044 046 066 084 has. Just what we are keeping track of in a thread at chainsaw repair site so far.

 

Most of this is already covered, thanks.

One vote for replace piston.

 

Did you do a compression test before tore it down ? Looks like some chips have been through it ,but carbon across the whole top looks like a good ring seal to me ,i personally would run it ,but a meteor piston is pretty cheap while it is apart also ,i would ditch the gasket also ,i would rather have a used factory piston ,then an aft new one ,just from experience from my atv days . May check oem pricing also if replace it ,i heard they have come down considerably .

 

Would you say I should replace as well?

Also, thanks for the thread over at chainsaw repair, all hail the poulan 3400. It is awesome and really woke up my 3400! Only thing was there was mention of changing the carb but I didn't see what carb to switch too.

 

Skirts look shiney and could be worn to much. Cant really tell unless in my hand looking at them.
But shiney equals worn in my book. If so you could have movement aka slapping.

 

I highlighted the OP's carb info the other day for someone else looking. I found it in the thread and was easy to read over with so much info at once.
Thread was bumped up couple of days ago.

Wasnt straight forward though. Need to know how to change stuff around.

 

Has meteor resolved the 10mm piston issue yet?

 

Not that i am aware of yet ,they may drop the line if they have to retool for it ,20 year old saws are the minority anymore

 

trx250r180, compression with my tester was a touch over 155.

 

I had a 505 that had higher compression then that. When I pulled it down. I could clearly see how much the skirts were worn on it. I dont care that it had super great psi. I put a new piston in.
Plus went back with gasket over sealer. I no longer use just sealer. I want gaskets. Its a tool that works and the chainsaw dont care if it takes a second longer in a cut.

 

i bet you get 170-175 comp ditching the gasket ,is that a 10mm miston ? i see the 10mm wings on the skirt . I would run that over the meteor 10mm flaw piston ,the pin section was found to be wider like a 12mmm size so it lets the rod float more than stock .If you can get an oem piston pretty cheap would be better ,but there is still some life in the one in the images ,it does show some wear being the factory machine marks are gone from the skirts ,a stock piston is usually good for 2000 hours if the saw is run with good oil and fuel .and maintained hoses and seals .

 

You can leave it as is IMO. Or you can get a set of Caber rings from Greece on Ebay and probably boost the compression. I have replaced tired rings with Cabers on several saws and gotten good results. The jug and slug look OK to me as well. Used? Yes. Dead? No. I also prefer OEM and I prefer keeping the base gasket as well. Put a Canadian 460 dual port muffler cover on it and you will get a good boost in power and it will breathe better, run cooler and last longer.

 

I thought the right thing to do was put new rings on my ks jug 10mm 044 when i had it apart ,well after a while i pulled the top off to try a diff jug ,and the cylinder wall had awful deep scratches in it ,so beware on what rings you get ,i think i used the split rings ,stay away from those ,i wish i would have left the originals on the piston ,the cylinder would still be good .


the split rings

 

Here is a better pic of the exhaust side of the cyl..



This is a 10mm saw and I mean to keep it.

I just checked it for a base gasket delete and I am getting between .015-.017, so I would have to do some sort of gasket.