Here is a pic of what happens to my glass almost every full load. Once the stove is up to temp 650+ and the air and key damper are set I get black glass that forms in this pattern. It burns off later in the burn and by the time I reload there is only a little bit left at the very edges. The black doesn't form on the glass until after I have restricted the air, on this burn the air is open about 1/4", stove is an Englander nc30. Anybody else see this? Pretty normal? On smaller loads, I can leave the air open a bit more and the black doesn't form, but on a full load I can't leave the air open as much and I see this regularly.
Here is a picture of mine as we speak after having the air down last night. Bottom corners, same as you, 3yr css pin oak.
I get the same when I bring the air damper down after a reload. With the cat engaged the firebox runs cooler and I get the carbon deposits on the glass. It burns off later.
I got that at first, but not so much anymore. Mostly just the slight white haze after a few days. No key damper anymore, so it's just the primary being used to control the air. Open up the key damper and see what happens.
That is quite normal in most stoves.......even with dry wood. The glass cools at the end of a burn when you reload the stove, and being the air wash doesn't hit the bottom corners very good that does happen..... Here's a pic of mine, and believe me I burn three year wood. Notice the bottom corners. One big reason it happens in my case is I like to make a "valley" out of the coals when I reload the stove, so the air can get under the wood for good combustion.....that steals the air wash from this bottom corners and funnel it under the wood, creating a little haze on the bottom corners.
The only time I get that is if the wood is right up against the glass. If I keep the wood an inch from the glass the air wash seems to work fine.
I get that with my 30, even when it's not a full load. Seems to happen towards the end of the burn when the load starts coaling. At least once a day I clean the glass with steel wool and then wipe it off with a dry washcloth and that seems to reduce the buildup. If I gradually open the air when the load starts breaking down, I get very little haze, if any.
I've been getting the same thing with the Myriad if I use splits that are long and get within an inch or two of the glass.
Just be aware that the "glass" may eventually get scratches in it if using steel wool. I can take the haze off with a damp rag. For more stubborn stuff, I use Rutland glass cleaner or damp rag/towel and some ash from the stove. I got the cleaner at Wallyworld for about 4 bucks over 4 years ago, and still have enough for several more cleanings. I'd hate for you to lose the ability to see the fire. If your "haze" is so bad you need steel wool, something's wrong.
Yep you will get that if ya choke the 30 to much. I run the air control in until the dog house blast is intermittent with full secondaries going, that seems to work fairly well for me. The secondaries have to be well established though or you will lose them and it will get real black up front.
Same here DaveGunter as the others. Glass will get black as the heat drops and the wash stops. I use a window razor blade scraper to clean it off. 8 easy runs across and it's clear.
It does seem common on many stoves but usually nothing to be concerned with except the looks of the thing. Fortunately we don't get the black on ours but do get some haze from fly ash but not enough to be concerned with.
I use 0000 SW on it and using it daily all season, haven't noticed any scratches or swirls and inspect it pretty well. I don't have to use it, but it works well for me on hot glass. The haze I get is kind of a ghostly looking haze. If I close the door it's hardly visible, but when I open it, I can see it. We sit in front of the stove nightly and I like it to be clean, the haze rarely has any color in it. When the outside temps start creeping up past 30 at night, the haze will darken a little. I think it's just the nature of my draft.
Yep, I get that same haze. Cleaned it a couple days ago, and it's barely starting to show again. I clean maybe once a week. I'm glad the SW isn't causing problems.
I thought it was normal and nothing to really be concerned with. I'm pretty sure it's not from choking the stove down too much as the temp of the stove is high, it's just that I've seen lots of pics and videos of tube stoves with secondaries blazing and super clean glass. Here is a pic 8 hours later, never touched the air or the damper for the length of the burn, just got home and opened the air and key damper so I could rake the coals forward to burn them down, glass was clean when I got home.
Both my stoves do that.....the EPA Hampton and the old Buck 26000. The rest of the glass stays clean, except for the proverbial white haze.
I get the "haze" on a full load. Only time I get black on the glass is when the wood falls against the glass or if there is moisture, either from rain/snow or not completely seasoned. When it does get black a hot fire turns it into the haze that gets wiped off. KaptJaq
Same here.. And I have probably only cleaned my glass 3 or 4 times this year. Only once was it black this year, and I closed the air far to much, far to soon. Opened it up and it burned right off. This is current state. Much like Backwoods said, I only get a fly ash build up on the glass.
When the 30 is rolling along with the air shut and the stop top at around 700, my glass does about the same thing. It burns off as the burn cycles through.
