Anyone burning the progress hybrid in this subzero snap?

Jdonna,
My curiosity has been building re what manometer reading I would get. I'm pretty slow to get "unnecessary" accessories (note it took me 3 years with the PH to get a flue damper, never did with the Fireview obviously), 12 years burning without a moisture meter, bought one 72% off just before Christmas, used it a few times, it confirmed what I believed about my wood moisture content, and I have not used it since. A nuisance adding a step and splitting wood, when I know it will burn fine. But, I admit a good tool to have for the odd occasion.
Your last post makes me think I may get a manometer. BUT.....do you have to drill a hole in the pipe to use it? If so, can you simply remove the probe thermometer and insert the manometer probe there (I assume it has a probe)? Will it fit? I don't want to drill another hole in my double wall pipe. While I am very interested in the reading, I don't need to know it. My stove is working fine with the flue damper installed. But, curious.....

 

I put one on my stack to prove to a stove company that the problem was not draft related with my setup. I've had a machine screw stuck in the hole of the pipe to put the probe in, but I its just as easy to pull the probe thermometer out and slide the tube in to get a reading. When I was experimenting with a barometric damper at one point, I used the manometer to perfectly set it as well.

I also played around with different caps when the wind was cranking 30 mph plus and am quite pleased with the one I have now because the draft doesn't swing so horribly bad.

 

Which pipe temp probe are you guys using?

I have a PTC magnet mount temp gauge with the min and max extra hands. But I'm going to sell that one, and thinking of getting the probe type instead... I now have stainless stovepipe so the magnet doesn't work.
http://www.ptc1.com/thermometers_lab_stem.htm

 

I can pull the cat probe and install it there too.

 

I have a condor probe, but it is designed with a magnet slipped on the probe that seals the probe to the pipe so no air leak. The magnet won't work on your stainless pipe......

 

Thank you for the info, Jdonna.

 

Just curious but what are you using for a manometer?

Brian

 

http://www.grainger.com/product/2T6...2T650&ef_id=Ugl48gAABVtfAXHN:20150107213754:s

 

jdonna,
should mention that with my PH with my setup before installing the flue damper, I did get up to 16 hour burns. That not on a completely full load, but certainly as much as would constitute a full load in the Fireview. Also not in bitterly cold weather, windy day situation. More heat than the Fireview and over a longer time (more efficient, and more heat out the larger glass). That said, my stove function is vastly improved with the flue damper installed. An entire other level of control. Cannot believe the difference. Cannot imagine burning without it now. Anytime I have the damper wide open now, I feel like the air is roaring. Amazing what one gets used to. Would definitely recommend a flue damper for anyone in a cold climate with a tall stack.

 

Joshrohde,
Welcome! Very nice install. Loving the stove? Wishing you many years of enjoyment and warmth. Keep us posted re your experience with the stove.

 

burndatwood -
cannot tell from your avatar: do you have the ashpan on the PH?

Was going to suggest you install a flue damper with that tall chimney, then on your second post saw you have a liner so I guess that's not an option. It would both help keep the cat cleaner and the stove more controllable because of decreased draft. From my experience, the PH likes a good draft, but performs much better without an excessive one.

 

I'm killing some time and don't want to fall asleep without reloading, so posting here.

2:26 AM, stove top 225, flue 250, waiting for coals to burn down.

Loaded three splits of sugar maple (probably total of 1 cu foot as one split was largish) at 4 PM. The large split felt heavy, so I figured not as dry as the rest of the wood for some reason, but OK. Did not check moisture content as did not feel like splitting it. Fire started right up, stove top got to about 380, but didn't want to go higher on 1/4 to 1/3 air, flue temp got to 600 by probe, engaged cat. Stove didn't want to get hotter, so I left air at that setting. Calm flames lifting off the wood, didn't really look like a secondary burn, flue temp dropped to 400. Went for a walk, checked the chimney, no visable smoke or white moisture exhaust. So figured just wetter wood. Then, as fire progressed the same for many hours and it is most unusual for me not to have a very active fire with the air open that much, I decided I better check the cat at the coaling stage. About 9PM a nice slow secondary burn began, which lasted until I fell asleep (unplanned...I was reading). Awoke at 1o AM to coals. Flue 200, stove top 250. Opened the bypass, opened the air.
Did some things until 1:30. Checked the cat.
Findings: Very light gray ash in the chamber above the stove...about 3 T I guess. This is a definite improvement over pre-flue damper install, when that powder would have been fine but blackish. So confirmed I am getting more complete burn with the better air control, more heat out of my wood. Brushed into two corners and removed. Downdraft side of cat has tiny amount of very white powder: nothing to even be able to brush off.
Removed cat: surface almost entirely blocked with very fine very white powder. Still small opening into each cell.
Again, this is an improvement over pre-damper install: both much less accumulation, and much lighter color. Previously was light gray. Placed on side on a few sheets of newspaper, brushed off cat, turned "dirty" side down onto paper after folding paper over dust already on paper, and blew through cat. Lifted cat, folded paper again, repeat...repeated two or three times, brushing surface of cat each time, until nothing coming out. Replaced cat at about 1:35. Opened door to load, and found I had way too many coals to want to reload. Broke up the piece still in split form, raked the coals to the front, cleared the air supply hole, and closed the door to burn the coals down. Air open all the way, bypass open. Stove top went to 225, flue 250 by 2:26 as noted above.
2:45, stovetop 225, flue 220. Going to rake the coals again, see if I can reload
Still a lot of coals, but much burned down. Removed about three shovelfuls of ash. We've had about 1/2 inch snow, swept steps, took dog out, dumped cold ashes and brought container in . Will remove a bit more ash (first container was full after adding the three shovelfuls) and reload. Basically, 4 PM to 3 AM on three splits of maple and still radiating heat from the stove and through the window. Not too shabby. Signing off at 2:58 AM.
3:06, ash removed, s [/ATTACH] tove loaded, and flame on the front lower split before the door is closed. Four splits of sugar, three 5x5 x18 in, one 6x5x18. Flames roaring now, two minutes later, going to close the flue damper. Have already closed the air by 1/4.

 

The previous post picture of the coals was taken before the coals were burned down. Second shows flame on reload before door is shut. These pictures show coals at reload, and the load.

 

3:30, stovetop 300, probe flue thermometer 540. Closed air to 1/4, closed bypass to engage cat.
Going to bed! May get one more picture before. Anyway, half an hour from a really small coal bed, and me wasting time fiddling with the postings, and the stove is settled down for the long burn. I'll just shut the air all the way now.

 

2 PM, just put two sugar maple splits in. 11 hour burn on a very moderate load. Supposed to get colder all day, be downright chilly tonight. Hope to have these splits burned down to mostly ashes by 8 PM or so, for a full load of Ironwood and sugar for the overnight, a 500+ stovetop and lots of heat. Going for a walk with the dog, will bring a days wood in from the stacks on my return.
so -- last 22 hours, 7 splits of sugar maple, divided over 2 loads.

 

3:30, air closed all the way, stovetop at 470, but peaked a few minutes ago over 500. Stove room (46 x 16) is 76 degrees. This fire should be down to coals by 8, as planned.

 

Sherwood, where are you?

 

In the room where the stove is. C'mon, pay attention!

Sorry, could not resist.

Brian

 

Hello sherwood. I installed a Durablack DVL flu damper before the PH even arrived. I found after burning it with the air all closed up my draft is strong enough to cause a whistling noise as air passes the intake butterfly valves. The flu damper slows my draft enough to make the whistling go away. It sure is nice having the extra level of control also.

 

Southern Ontario, but very familiar with your neck of the woods. Early childhood spent at 31 Cottonwood Lane, Levittown. We spent all our winters at Jones Beach, playing in the sand, in snowsuits, no one else there. Great memories.