Newbie... Need Install Advice For Farenheit Endurance

I wondered the same thing.

 

Some duct parts came in, waiting for more. Couldn't beat HD prices locally, not even close. So I had to wait the 10 days so far

 

Does the cold air return matter if I install 90 degree bends? I know normally 45's are easier on air but I am not sure if it matters on cold air returns. Someone chime in, I have 10" round ducts going up soon. They will run up and inside the floor joist.

When I hit the end of the run, I will need to come out of the floor joist cavity and over across the joist , and down to land inside the furnace cold air return box.

Found the concept pic online

 

Will need to do similar to hot air supply also. It's the next bay over.

 

The cold air return box came in. I can see it needs to be sealed along the edges. Lots of air leaks at the seams!

The instructions want this box mounted only at the top?
That means the bottom is not attached?

That's a dumb design if you ask me. Why not screw the bottom or someone attach it?
The side I understand, the filter slides in.

 

I wondered the same when I first saw mine but came up with an easy answer.

Gravity.

It's not going anywhere if mounted only at the top. If you need to take it off to get at the room air blower you don't want to be trying to get underneath it to get at hidden fasteners. No harm if a small amount of basement air gets sucked in.

A normal propane or oil furnace has a removable panel to get to the room blower. No such animal on the Fahrenheit, so removing the cold air return box doubles as your access to the blower for removal or servicing.

 

Your redoing the venting? Or you mean duct work?

Pm me some pics when done.

 

Yeah I have all the 10" elbows that are adjustable, and 5ft runs of 10" rigid. I wanted to do a 10" takeoff and stay inside the floor joist but realized it's too big to fit on the end of the square duct. Maybe they sell a square to round connector? My square duct is 14" wide by 8" tall.

 

I was able to test fit the furnace in place, it's not set for good but close to its resting spot.
I mocked up the vent and I am in need of a 12" length. Also need more blocks for the front area, I didn't calculate for the rear box.

 

Thanks man, if you see anything that should be changed or could be better please do tell! I work with my hands for a living but this is a first for me.

I wanna see your duct redo

 

Ok I need advise, so I am looking to see how I am gonna route the cold return and hot supply.
I realized that the main trunk looks like 14 x 8 rectangle but then reduces to 10.5 x 8 rectangle.

How do you think I should tap into the 10.5 x 8 rectangle trunk?

Now the cold air return trunk doesn't reach the back wall. So I have to extend it myself, the plan was to use round 10" but since it's a 14 x 8 rectangle trunk I can't find something to transition me into the round.

I still have the ability to purchase the 14 x 8 duct and run it 15' or so back. Then use a 10" takeoff from under if I have to go this route.

In the pic you can see the hot supply on the left. Not in the pic is also the cold to the left of it but it doesn't go as far down.

 

That's the problem, I can't get the 10" collar on a 10" rectangle underside. Or the 8" side wall.

 

What about something like this: http://www.menards.com/main/bath/ba...-10-round-duct-transition/p-189345-c-5869.htm

You can go directly into the side of the trunk that way, and it helps with head room.

 

Is that a takeoff?
Does that size restrict the 10" round?
I would like to go into the side.

 

I don't know enough about air flow dynamics, but I do know that the 4.5x18.5 hole is larger than the 10" hole, so it shouldn't slow things down too much...I think. They also make a 8x12 to 10" round transition piece, but I haven't had any luck locating that piece for sale anywhere. Broan makes it, but no one actually sells it as far as I can tell.