Any special considerations for burning oak?

Glad I asked for input. I had a reasonable "day and a half" burn. It seems like the new late night habit I need to start is hit restroom, drop log on fire I didn't do it last night and it was barely coals this morning. On the other hand, I dropped a log on the barely showing coals and pulled the air fully out. Surprisingly, it caught fire and has been good for the day.

With the recommendation of "Super Cedars", I have to ask: Is there a downside to them or risk to the soapstone insert?

My neighbor recommended something similar but I'm being a little gun shy on them.

 

No. No. Last time I saw heard something like that smoke show was "currently destroying the bathroom at a Sears store!"

 

I still laugh about that post every time I go to the mall and see Sears.

 

I like to treat them as separate concepts. The chimney is structure and the flue the individual "pipe" inside of it, either clay tile or metal pipe. Very common for chimneys to have more than one flue - especially in older homes and masonry construction. But you can also have a wood framed chase with multiple steel pipes running through.

For example I have 2 chimneys on this house that contain 4 flues (one has 3, the other 1). Ive seen some grand old chimneys with as many as 5 or 6 flues. Even in mid-20th century construction its common to see brick chimneys with at least 2 flues (one for fireplace, one for the furnace).

 

As far as the wax melting and absorbing into the stone - I think the manual recommends against them for that reason.
Using a small piece of starter I wouldn't be concerned, just don't use the pressed wax logs as a main fire source.
Glad your oak is burning well on a coal bed

 

Super Cedars are safe to use with soapstone.

 

Hmm... guess I should drink lots of coffee before posting.

No I'm not burning dried manure in my fireplace

 

I would love any clean up hints.

On the top-down method, my first attempt failed beyond miserable. I'm on my second attempt currently and while not failing, I'm still scratching my head a bit.

 

the top-down method is overrated IMHO - could be the size of Clydesdales firebox or lack of a good draft(shoulder season) No reason to try it when the stove is already hot w/coals when I have good draft
I tried it 4-5 times and went back to building fires like every pyro does - paper, small twigs, bigger sticks then small splits.

As for clean out:
The vertical pieces of stone need to be removed, 7/16" socket with extension, or nutdriver if they aren't over tightened - just loosen the side strap bolts(1-2turns) and slide the bracket off, a piece of cardboard or old drop cloth to lay them on outside the stove. Remove the rear strap bolts all the way(they will get in the way of dropping the baffle) remove stones.
The baffle and tubes are held with 2 allen hex cap screws(i'll get back on the size allen wrench) they need to be removed completely - the baffle won't drop so don't worry there.
Lay your hands flat across the baffle tubes towards the front of the stove(try not to touch the plate above) elbows on the ashlip, push up and then pull forward, change one hand to brace the back of the assembly and lower it into the bottom of the stove. No reason to take the baffle& tubes out of the stove, just put a piece of scrap plywood on top of the baffle and sweep top down(or bottom up if you get a sooteater).
There are 4 screws holding the baffle in place with clamps on each side - I'd recommend removing them with a short #2 Phillips screwdriver and anti-seizing them only snug tight every year that you do full clean out/sweep...just incase your baffle ever breaks. I went back with allen hex caps on mine(and have more than enough PM me if you'd like some).

Lift the baffle (using the tubes as support) and slide it back over the rectangular air ports in the rear of the stove - lift from front, tip the back up, and slide it back horizontally.
Reinstall all hardware with anti-seize hand snug.

I've got it down to a 30-40min chore every fall including ladder setup

 

I'll say again, thank you for all the input.

With the top down, I'm just trying to do a little bit of experimenting to help with cold box startup to help minimize looking like a train If I was in the middle of a 100 acre lot, I'd probably care less.

 

Sorry if I missed it in all these posts but did some one mention that Oak is Not that good for starting a fire, the dense woods dont start so easy, I like Ash, Cherry, Silver Maple or any less dense wood to get it going and then add the Oak.