New Saw: Stihl 026

Seems like you’re dialed in very well. I had a fuel vent issue with a Stihl myself recently, took me a while to figure it out.

 

I finally had some time to get to this today!

I ended up pulling the handle off so I could get to the tank and have a closer look. This is the furtherest I’ve taken apart a saw. They’re fairly straight forward…and are really compact, so you have to be creative with removing some parts. But I’m sure most of you have been there, done that!

Turns out, the tank has a small leak.

Now, I could slather some fuel safe epoxy on this and call it day. But not sure of the longevity of that, given it’s on a seam. Any thoughts on a replacement?


Yes, I’m working on the tailgate of my truck. Makes a pretty decent workbench for a project like this.

 

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If it's a pin hole, I might try just cauterizing it with the tip of a hot soldering iron. Then there is plastic welding, with something like trimmer line as filler. Next JB Weld, they might have a gas tank repair formula? Aftermarket tank probably has flippy cap...yuck. You are in a good place to renew any questionable rubber stuff on the old girl.

 

Thanks! Yeah, looks like flippy caps on the aftermarket stuff. Just wondering what people have had good luck with. I’ve seen a few on Amazon, but not sure of the quality. There’s a guy on Marketplace who does a lot of work to Stihl saws and has used parts. Just not sure if that makes sense…as a used unit could end up developing the same problem.

 

There's a local guy on FBM selling saws and parts. Think he's in Meriden. Here's a link to one of his listings.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1Khua45Mrm/
I've PMed a couple times trying to buy saws but he's firm on price and I'm cheap!

 

That’s the guy Brad! Maybe I’ll se what he wants for tank/handle setup.

 

Knows his stuff. Looks like he has a decent shop and set up, but don't try to haggle him.

 

I ended up going to the guy on Marketplace. He’s not far from where I live and ironically works for the town I live in. He’s a really good guy! He spent a lot of time explaining the differences in the saw styles, how the outsides looks different, but innards are the same. He also was able to look at the part numbers on the handles/tanks he had vs mine and show which were newer. He tested my impulse line and the carb boot. He also showed me how the style of 026 I have has the choke built into the filter vs the carb. Long story short, knew his stuff and was willing to help out with some advice. He even offered for me to bring my saw back if I ran into any issues getting it together or getting it dialed in after getting it together.

Here’s what I picked up; unit up top is what I bought from him, one I had is below.



I paid $60. I thought that was fair. However, given the advice I got from him, totally worth it. Definitely someone I’ll keep in touch with.

 

Glad that worked out. He has lots of saws and parts for sale on FBM.

 

He does. he showed me his workshop which was really impressive. he also has quite the collection of OEM parts.

 

The knowledge was worth more than the part that’s a win…

 

Agreed! You can’t find that too easily.

 

Finally had some time to get this back together!

Overall, not that bad. The challenge was the impulse line and the carb boot. But I got it all sorted out.



Good news; no tank leak. Bad news; I tilt the saw to the right and it leaks. I have a feeling it’s the fuel line. If I was smart, I would have replaced that before installing everything. Sigh. So, I’ll transfer the one from the other tank over as that wasn’t leaking. Fingers crossed!

Ripped through a few rounds and did a little noodling to a hollow log. This feels like it revs out more than my MS250. Even my wife noticed the difference in the sound of the saw.



The saw doesn’t idle well. I have to adjust that as it stalls out unless I’m on the throttle. Should be straight forward…famous last words.

Had some leftover parts. I know that plug goes over the lower mount. But it can’t fit over that mount with that metal gromet in place. I just can’t recall how it all goes together as it’s been awhile and many other projects since I took this apart.

 

The metal top hat goes in the upper left recoil hole that holds the brake flag. The screw goes through that and into the recoil, then case. M5.
The plastic piece is an AV cap that fits into the rubber AV mount. It is supposed to be quite tight, yep.
Did you rebuild the carb? New fuel line/filter is a must on these saws.

Occasionally, they require seals after a period of sitting. The flywheel side seal is problematic on 1121 (this series) and 1125 (034-360). I rule out all else before replacing them but sometimes end up doing it based on a failed vacuum test or running problems. The whole “saw runs bad on its side” thing with seals is debated frequently. Vacuum test answers that question better than anything else.

 

A fuel leak when tilting is either that fuel line where it enters the carb box (2 versions of that line, grommet size has to be right) or tank vent. Rarely a badly sealed carb or significant spit back draining. Gotta look where it’s leaking and go from there.

 

Thanks BuckthornBonnie !

I didn’t rebuilt the carb. It looks like a brand new aftermarket unit. I did pull the top cover off and inspected the diaphragm and gaskets. All were good. The saw started easily. I just need to dial in the idle as it stalls out.

I hit the local Stihl dealer and picked up a new OEM fuel line and air filter. I have the line, but the air filter will come in 2-3 days. Hopping to get at all installed and then really dial this saw in.

 

If there’s an ongoing struggle to tune, and some previous owner experienced the same, and threw a carb at it, it might have an air leak. Keep wrenchin’ as they say! You will have a nice firewood saw when it’s said and done.