New Trucks - Are they really better?

Our tar snakes in WI are the WORST in the world. I swear.

That's the only way the 4 Wheeled things can keep up to sport bikers that can ride.

 

As I mentioned, the WI tar snakes are super slick. Compared to all the other states tar snakes

 

I'd be winded after the runs I made 'with effort'. Neat piece of asphalt. My first time down I was coming down 129 to get to Tapoco with bike on trailer thinking...what have I gotten myself into? I hear it's hard to miss traffic these days. I would check out all the events planned and schedule my trips around them to get the cleanest roads. Great adventure and memories.

 

we rode through there in 2019

 

Got all of the old fluid pulled out of the reservoir, and new fluid running through the bleeder / caliper on all four corners. Seeming some air bubbles coming through the hose of the one man bleeder so I have a friend coming over tomorrow to help me bleed them via pedal method. All of the fluid coming out of the bleeders, and reservoir was pretty much this same color.

Thanks for the recommendation brenndatomu on getting two quarts. The reservoir held a quart just by itself, let alone what's in the lines.

 

IME Horkn input is very helpful In these situations

 

New trucks are garbage. My response to the first post is “did you downshift?”.

I have a 1991 f250 and it might not be as quick as the new stuff, but it’s paid for and tows well. The cab is about shot, so I might make a new one, but the rest of the truck is still going strong. It has a ford 300 in it. Damm good motors!!!

My son has a 1969 f600 with a 300 in it. Solid truck and way better than the new stuff.

 

When using my -POWER BLEEDER- I removed the gauge and added fittings/pressure regulator/gauge so I could just connect it to my air compressor. This way it maintains whatever pressure I have the regulator set to (15-20psi) and don't have to manually pump it up. Makes it pretty easy.

yep! That's why I don't like to pull vacuum on the bleeders. It will work in a bind, but you never fully know for sure if the air is coming from the brake line or just being pulled past the threads on the partially open bleeder. When I replaced the lines on my '77 Cutlass and bleed to the whole system, I had to do the vacuum thing, as they don't make an adapter/cap for those old style GM covers for my power bleeder. I was pulling air past the threads on the bleeder the whole time on one of the rear brake wheel cylinders (drum brakes in rear). I finally said it was good enough when I started to see all new fluid being pulled through. Same thing happened when I bled my ATV brakes using vacuum.

I have one of those -POWER VACUUM- things that use an air compressor. It's faster than using a Mity-Vac.

Keep pulling the fluid through, looks to be the old stuff yet.

 

Speaking of brakes. I drilled the drums on my truck years ago. Drums build up brake dust and it acts kind of like ball bearings between the shoe and drum, reducing braking power. The drilled drums have been working great for many years. Consistent, full power brakes every time with no “dust fade”, and they stay cooler too.

I had to use ai to remove the watermark, so a few holes are “missing”, but you can get the idea. I drilled 1/2” holes just outside the hub mounting area for fresh air inlets and .2” holes in a double pattern through the braking surface. The double pattern maintains balance. A total of 64 holes were drilled in each drum. The entire shoe area is swept by the holes, so nothing can get trapped in the drum. All dust is evacuated 4x with every turn of the wheel.

 

Wow, that fluid is DARK! Definitely time for a change. Good job!

 

Clean / clear fluid is coming out of the bleeders now on all four corners. I'll get the all of the air out via pedal method and call it good.

Found one on Amazon for $40 yesterday. My car and SXS need done, I just need to make sure the adapters will fit. Like the idea of using compressed air vs having to keep pumping it, if I get one I'll have to look into that.

 

Automatic. It does have manual mode, but I'm not sure what gear it puts it in if you drop it from drive to manual, I wasn't interested in finding out either.

 

Excellent. My guess is you'll have zero air coming out as soon as you start the manual bleeding process. Chances are you are good right now as the air you are seeing was probably being pulled past the bleeder threads, like I have experienced.

yep, you can find cheap knockoffs, but the Motive one is made in the US. You know how much I love buying knockoffs.

As long as your SxS uses an automotive style cap, you'll be able to find an adapter. ATV's have handle bar mounted reservoirs, like motorcycles have, so I used my power vacuum fluid extractor to do those.

 

Think you are spot on. Noticed yesterday that when I would barely crack the bleeder there would be very few bubbles. When I opened up the bleeder more, there would be more bubbles. I even put some grease on the bleeder to act as an air "barrier" and it didn't help.

I'm 100% for supporting U.S. companies. However when they try to sell me $5 worth of plastic for $100 then that's where my loyalty ends. I realize they have to pay taxes, labor, building costs, machine costs, R&D etc but I'm sure there's still a pretty healthy markup there and some CEO is making half a million a year too. Another topic for another day.

Yep, it has an automotive type cap.

 

Exactly.
As long as the pedal was solid before, and the reservoir didn't get too low, that air is from the bleeder.
BTDT

 

Pedal is solid, and I made sure the reservoir didn't run low so I *think* I'm good but I just want to make sure via bleeding with the pedal method. Truck is on jack stands with all 4 tires off so out of curiosity yesterday, I started it and threw it drive and hit the brakes. The rear wheels stopped, and the pedal felt normal. Guess I could put it in 4WD and make sure the fronts stop too.

 

I'm sure you're good...if you're going to have problems, it's usually the rear

 

Yep, no air bubbles coming from the bleeders. Took it on a test drive, and it stopped fine. The traction control system was not happy when I put it in 4WD on the jack stands. The ABS got a workout though. .

Thank you everyone for all the help, it's highly appreciated. Like Canadian border VT said in another thread, some of the best people hang out here!!

 

An auto will stay in the current gear when shifting to manual selection. You can up/down shift from there. The only ones that would change the gear when shifting to manual were the “prnd321” models. Going from drive to 3 would shift from 4th to 3rd.

Always downshift when going down grades, and keep to a gear that can hold you back. Lower gears will hold your speed better. You can go up as fast as you want, but you better be careful on the way down. There is no shame in going slower. Speed kills, and it’s true. Start slow on the way down in a low gear and find out what works. If your brakes go out and you aren’t in a gear that can hold you back, you’re screwed. If your current gear won’t hold, slow down and drop another gear.

I’ve gone 30 minutes or more on downhill grades without burning a drop of fuel. It doesn’t matter if you are going 5mph or 50. The gear has to hold you back. Every truck and load is different. Glad you are ok.