Log splitter hydraulic oil filter help

I can't remember the correct name (brain cramp), but that's where you adjust the detente kick-off pressure so the control handle kicks off at the end of the return stroke. There should just be regular o-rings in that end, I think, not hard to find.

 

Well, it's much fancier then I thought!

 

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Awesome, thank you!

 

That happened to me a year or two ago. You might remember the thread on it. Ended up getting a new pump and filter housing.

The filter on my bobcat is a CP75210
The filter on my splitter is a napa 1551
I believe they are the same filter.

 

One thing I found out from Napa is their gold filter line has an equipment warranty. If the filter fails and your equipment is damaged because of it, they pay the bill.

 

Anyone have advice for air in the oil & lines? It was pretty bad yesterday after I got the new oil in & filter on, the tank was full of bubbles so I let it sit for the night but there's likely more.

 

I am under the impression it self purges but I may be mistaken.

 

I believe it did, I ran it right after posting this, none in the tank and don't see any in the pump supply line

 

Air will be pumped out as you use it. Mostly gone after one full cycle and nearly completely gone after 2-3.

 

I had thought it was the return line on mine leaking, turns out it's that flange gasket. I think I may make one out of veggie fiber to replace. I assume manufacturer thinks we are using unfiltered old fry oil considering the extra screen and micron requirements? I guess over filtered is better than under.

 

The filters are primarily intended to catch debris that is sucked in through the breather. Small hole breathers “inhale” more dirt, dust, and debris than you think. That little hole is meant to keep bugs and debris out, but it makes the air move really fast through it. That acts like a vacuum cleaner and sucks in anything near it that isn’t glued down by oil residue.

I use a large breather cap on mine that looks like a mushroom top. It keeps rain out as well as blowing snow. The only thing that might get in is very fine dust, but it would have to go through the oiled metal wool first.

You also have a chance of seal material, hose chunks, metal particles, and pieces of sealer circulating in the oil. I had my filter bypass break and make it through the tank and back into the pump. Yeah that pizzed me off. The casting for the bypass was incredibly cheap and really bad quality. I replaced the pump and put a pipe plug in place of the bypass. I drilled a calibrated hole in the plug to act like a self regulating bypass. It has the ability to flow the full pump volume at higher pressure, but most of the fluid goes through the filter at about 1-2 psi when the fluid is warm so hardly any goes through the hole. This ensures a very high filter rate while eliminating the possible failure of the bypass. If some particle does get in the oil, there is a 95+% chance it will be caught in the filter. If it doesn’t get caught in the filter the first time, it will the second time.

 

Understand. The pumps being 'protected' can be had for a benjamin though.

 

That may be chump change and a mild inconvenience for some, but for others it’s a big deal. What if it isn’t JUST the pump that is damaged. Circulating material in hydraulics usually destroys the valves, cylinder, and pump. Then you have to clean it all up, replace the damaged parts, and buy new oil.

I would rather change a filter every 3-10 years and not have to worry too much about it.

That’s not going to prevent catastrophic failure in the event something goes horribly wrong, but it is a safe guard.

 

7-8 years of use. Clean as a whistle. Once I get a decent gasket on there I will never be removing the flange again. Taking old filter to NAPA to get a match today or tomorrow.

 

NAPA #1551

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL...Ace8CtP-8KgI9xNf5QLwh7cHme0uYm7039HVijzZFIIkk

I get a discount for my work, so I paid a good bit less. Use the NAPA # to cross to your favorite filter maker.

 

Those who have larger capacity pumps, check the max flow rate of your filters. I have a 25 GPM pump on mine and when I went to buy a replacement filter they all had stamped on them the max flow rates, which were NOWHERE near the flow rate of the pump (IIRC, something like 8 or 10 GPM). Pretty sure the OEM filter was the same way too. So the filter would end up being in partial bypass pretty much the whole time the engine is running at high idle/full throttle under a load.

I ended up replacing the filter head and filter to match the flow of the pump.
Spin-On Filter Heads SF120 Series | Zinga

 

My pump is fed from bottom of reservoir, return is what goes through the filter. Never had any cavitation or anything. Guessing the capacity overrules possible slow filter rate?

 

So I think we have the same splitter with a different brand. Mine is a Southland and that brand has stopped selling this model. It has an import motor but other than that looks the same. Pictures and manuals attached. The part
number for the filter is A203317 filter is A203317

 

This build has worn many Liveries. lol Overall I think a pretty solid design. There was at least minimal thought put forth for layout and such.

Got one of my broken flange bolts out last night. The other will have to be drilled. Hoping to knock it out this weekend. Only waiting for that and to make a new flange gasket to get it all back together and running on Dex3 fluid. Going to see what hose I have at work to replace the suction line to pump. The hose on it has stiffened but not leaked. I don't plan on any more fluid purges any time soon, so looking to refresh it for service life.

 

I would assume/hope that's the way most (if not all) splitters are setup. I don't think it would be a good idea to put the filter on the suction side.

It's a positive displacement pump, meaning it's going to pretty much pump it's rated volume no matter what. If the filter is a restriction, it will just bypass what it can't flow through the filter media once the differential in pressure passing through the filter reaches whatever PSI the bypass valve in the filter is set at.

In other words, the pump will do it's thing and provide whatever it's rated volume is to the system. If the filter is not capable of passing the full flow through the filter, you will just have partial bypassing happening the majority of the time. Probably not a big deal, as it's a closed system, outside of the vent hole on the fill plug. I just wanted to limit the partial bypassing as best I could, hence putting in a larger capacity filter head AND filter.