Who's making good oil filters now?

I actually run Mobil 1 0w40 euro spec stuff in all my small engines as well as my LSX powered cars and ATV. I change all often, as I don't drive the cars much. I run HPL's oil in our daily drivers. If you watch enough of LSJr's videos, he visits HPL's lab when he does some of his testing. They are in N IL.

Same here. I bought a handful of cases of Fram Titanium's (Fram Ultra's) back before they cheapened them up. Back then they tested out with very high efficiency and lower pressure drop through the media and decent capacity. Best of both worlds. No idea how they would test out now. Wix XP is a long drain interval filter and is NOT efficient at all, but it does have ton's of capacity. I actually run the same 10575 oil filter that was tested on both of our daily drivers.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...e-point-and-burst.334882/page-19#post-5789087

 

Since Kubota started offering Super UDT 2 synthetic hydro fluid, I went back to oem. I had zero issues with the amsoil product but the Kubota product is more cost effective.

 

Good plan. Without doing oil analysis to see if needs changed, Id do the same if we short tripped our vehicles.

 

I watch all Lakes vids. HPL makes excellent products based on my research.

Isn't the euro spec oil diesel and gasoline rated?

 

You guys running non motorcycle spec oils in bikes/etc with wet clutches dodged a bullet if the clutch didnt go out... I have changed clutches in a number of customers bikes due to that very issue, usually doesn't take long either, like 20-50 miles it'll no longer hold high gear/full throttle loads.

 

A guy rode his bike to the auto parts store and spotted some miracle oil additive bought it, poured some in and couldn't make it home.

 

No, I believe they are only gas certified.

No JASO rating needed for my ATV.

 

Never had a clutch issue even on the 600 and 650cc big bores.

 

That's running a honda XR250R, XR600R and XR650R as well as a kawasaki KLX250, Honda 350 rancher, 450 foreman, Yamaha big bear and Honda Hawk GT650 street bike.

 

Shocking...

 

Not really. There are automotive oils that overlap motorcycle oils in their wet clutch compatibility. In fact, Before 1998, there was no special oil for wet clutches. Motorcycle oil was automotive oil in different bottles. The introduction of energy conserving automotive oils around that time is where the issues started. The drive to increase fuel economy caused changes in the additive packages that can be an issue for wet clutches. That Mobil 1 15w50 I used was not an energy conserving oil and most likely didn't have the friction modifiers in it that are the issue for wet clutches.

 

This explains it to an extent.

https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/tech_pdfs/What is the Difference between JASO MA and JASO MB.pdf

 

This is what I have been using for several years in my pre emissions diesel Kubota and all 4 stroke ope.

 

Correct, no wet clutches, right?

 

nope......wish it did, but it's got a rubber band. Although Arctic Cat and Yamaha have CVT's that also incorporate a small wet clutch setup to help prolong belt life at idle I believe. I know my buddies mid '00's Arctic Cat requires JASO oil. He just runs Rotella T6.

 

I've run Rottela a good bit with no issues. Bought some Meijer brand 10-40 last time, iirr. No clutch problems..... yet.

 

Which rotella? The standard 10w40 is actually great bike oil...popular with the older muscle bike crowd (V65, Vmax, etc)

 

I was going to comment on this. You can get away with it on Harley's or other divorced transmission bikes, and on dry clutch bikes( many Ducati). But run the" energy conserving" rated oil in a wet clutch bike you'll quickly see fund out why you need to pretty attention.

 

Shocking definitely. I had an 84 xl600R and I had no issues, but then I ran bike specific oil. Now I've run rotella in wet clutch ATVs and bikes. Those oils are not energy conserving rated, so they are fine for bike use.

 

Bingo. The "energy conserving" means clutch killer for wet clutch bikes.