Ear piercing screech from bypass handle (Any lubricant?)

Very unlikely to get any lube placed correctly without pulling the stove pipe and applying the lube directly to the bypass mechanism. Spraying in from the outside of the bypass handle may be the only way you corrupt the Catalyst. Uffda. Good luck.

 

Now why didn't I think of that!! Thanks!

Unfortunately, the video doesn't really do justice to the actual sound. The noise doesn't get any better regardless of how slow you go.

 

Yeah, that's soothing!

 

Near as I can tell after removing the stove pipe for top access to the stove, everything is pretty tightly closed up. The bypass rod handle is welded on to the inner bracket, so no chance of removing it to lubricate inside the pipe the rod runs through. Just no way to get at it near as I can tell. Spoke with the dealer about it and he is placing a call to his rep. Can't believe I'm the first one to have this issue. Now that we are spending more time with the new grandbaby here, it's become quite an issue.

 

Not my wife's response at 5am. More like>>

 

The sound my Clydesdale makes is worse. Oh and the entire stove insert has to be removed for any maintenance on the bypass linkages.

 

The dealer has talked to them on my behalf. Unfortunately, their solution is to put anti seize on the flat piece that lifts the bypass door, but, had done that already, and that is not where the screech is coming from. It is definitely in the pipe the bypass rod to the handle runs through.

 

I kinda like the sound. I know when/if someone is effing with the stove.
Light sleepers are probably not fans.

 

I don't know, if someone felt so inclined to bring in a load of wood and have a killer desire to load er up, pretty sure I'd be ok to let them do that. So far, that particular problem, hasn't been a problem .

I just picked up some anti-seize which says it will resist heat up to 2,400°. If I get a day where I can let the stove cool down, I'm going to disconnect the chimney and see what I can do with it.

 

Nickel based?

 

Sorry for the late response. Yes, you are correct! Haven't had a chance to try it yet

 

Automotive parts stores will sell a bottle of anti seize. This product is what we use in the manufacturing. After a sweeping, any deposits that fall into the dome area can result in a scratchy noise. The lid has a brush, so just brush it on liberally. This is easiest done by lift the vent pipe.

BKVP

 

I'll add that deposits fall all the time, not just during sweeping, which can foul this area and cause noise.

 

I've tried several anti seize products, even the ones with the brushes in the bottle. So far, no real improvement. I haven't had the chance to try the new tube I bought. I will soon.

 

I have used a graphite spray successfully on the handle to our stove door. It has a light solvent to act as a vehicle to the graphite to penetrate and carry it into the crooks and nannys. Comes with a red tube to concentrate the spray. My only complaint with it is that you have to spray and let dry several times to deliver a sufficient amount of graphite to the hidden workings and inner mechanisms. As with any lube you have to redo it occasionally.

 

I have a somewhat related squeak on my handle, different stove, much more open with better access. I think I will look into it today, try something to reduce the squeak.

 

I had purchased a can of this, just for this problem, but I didn't seem to have any luck with it.

 

So, this weekend, I gave the chimney pipe a thorough cleaning, and removed the interior pipe to vacuum out the fine debris that fell onto the bypass door. While I was in there, I literally greased every visible moving part with the nickel based anti seize I posted above. The squeal did not diminish in the least bit. As before, I'm completely convinced the noise is coming from the friction of the rotating metal rod that passes through the metal tube between the bypass handle and where it is welded onto the bracket that manipulates the bypass door. There is literally no way to get a lubricant into this area that I can see. Any suggestions? My idea on a better design would have been a threaded rod and double nutting instead of welding the rod onto the bypass bracket. This way, the rod could be removed, lubricated, reinserted, and the nuts replaced. Guaranteed, this screech would be resolved.