In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

What small saw should I buy?

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by lukem, Nov 16, 2024.

  1. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    It gets the job done and most of what it would do on a clearing job is soft wood anyway. I use mine for everything. If I was a climber and wanted a high powered/fast cut through the 201 would be in order. For ground work, I can deal with it. It makes fast work of it by my standards. Dealing with brush and small stuff it becomes a safety thing for me. You can contol them and handle most any kickback situation. If you are getting tired near the end of the day because you have been handling a heavier than needed saw, that is when a bad situation can happen. I try to avoid that as I'll put in from sun up to to sundown days.

    I had a ton of honeysuckle on this project and decided to cut everything 1 inch and up for heat. It'll burn quick but at least I'll have my revenge on this nasty stuff. LOL

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  2. Ronaldo

    Ronaldo

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    How are you guys treating the stumps to kill the roots and prevent re growth?
     
  3. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I normally use my echo 2511P for probably 80% of my cutting. I definitely prefer lighter if it is capable enough for the task at hand.
     
  4. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    If I don't dig them out I use Tordon RTU(Ready To Use). I dribble it on a paint brush and hit the whole surface on little ones. Bigger stuff, just hit the outer 3 inches. Stuff works well. Available at most farm stores here.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2024
  5. rusty ranger 44

    rusty ranger 44

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    Whatever it is you decide on, you want dealer support
     
  6. lukem

    lukem

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    I'm having a hard time getting past the "if it isn't magnesium it's trash" mindset after looking into these smaller saws.

    The one thing that really bothers me is the bar stud threaded into plastic. Am I overthinking this?
     
  7. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I recently stripped out a bar stud hole on a mag case, dolmar built makita. It had no flange on the stud.

    If the bar stud has a flush setting flange on the inside of the bar that the bar sets against, the clamping force is between that flange and the nut on the outside that holds the bar on. You can't pull the stud out from over tightening.
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  8. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    Stihl sells oversized bar studs for some of their plastic case saws in case they get torn out.
     
  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Sounds like some people must tighten bars nuts on a 16" ms170 about the same as a 48" ms661..
     
  10. T.Jeff Veal

    T.Jeff Veal

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    For what it's worth...
    We have a MS180 with MM, my favorite little saw, good 2 handed control, changed to 14" bar...https://youtube.com/shorts/bOkTmWG1TpQ?si=Pa2SPjFUNgFi9ae_

    UNTIL...we got our Echo XS2511T...
    Kevin's port job is awesome on this little saw...it still has the 12" bar-3/8LP chain in it, we added a 3 point dog from WCS, really helps with the chatter. Good 2 hand control with it and easier to 1 hand if needed. Very reliable, better warranty and super light. We have cut brush with both of these saws...
     
  11. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I might know a guy...:rofl: :lol:
     
  12. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    They are fun lil buggers for sure. I have an arborist friend that has 5 or 6 of them. Top and rear handle mix. All ported. He hasn't touched his MS201s in a few years now.
     
  13. Sandhillbilly

    Sandhillbilly

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    I know you said it has to be gas powered… and I don’t know your reason for it. I’m not a big fan of the “electric movement” myself. But it sounds like a 18v Milwaukee hatchet would be perfect for the job. I’ve used mine a lot for clearing small saplings and it will cut anything with the bar fully buried.
    It truly is a impressive little tool
     
  14. blacktail

    blacktail

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    I was in a similar position a few years ago when I had a big cedar cut down and wanted a light saw for all the branches. After some reading here, I bought an MS180. I love it! If logs are 12" or less, I use the 180 instead if my 290.
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  15. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I had a little 170 that I really liked too. Of course I had to fiddle with it as I always do. Lol
     
  16. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    Stihl 201 rear handle pro saw or its farm/ranch equal MS194 are light nimble saws. I own a 201 RH and really like it for limbing and bucking smalls. My recent purchase in June of a mint 241 has made it a shelf queen. Im running a 14" bar for weight reduction and fewer teeth to sharpen. My 2c for

    A top handle is a nice saw to have in the arsenal. You can one hand cut though not recommended for the inexperienced. I own a 201 & 194 top handle and like them both.

    Owning many saws I go through cycles of which ones I use.
     
  17. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    Yes the 201 are very pricey. I was fortunate to get both of mine cheap and both very low hours.
    Do you have any experience with a top handle?
     
  18. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    :bug: That has to be the biggest hoard of limb wood I've ever seen. VERY impressive Kevin! :salute:
     
  19. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio

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    Furnace house got stacked in first and burning that this year. About 10 cord in there as it's over 8ft high.

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    Last year neighbor let me cut up some of his dead ash so that fills up 2 1/4 bays in the shed. That was 64 cord and nice wood. I stacked it pretty. LOL

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  20. lukem

    lukem

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    I've used them enough to know that's not what I want for this job. I don't think they are as safe as a rear handle either....easier to get lazy with your form.

    I think it's between the 194 and 2511 rear handle versions.