In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Diesel truck discussion

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by TurboDiesel, Jan 13, 2019.

  1. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    Stuff is miles (literally) better than anything the OEM's are putting in a late-model trans. I've been running the low-visc formula in the Honda van and it made a surprisingly noticeable difference.
     
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  2. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I've been kicking around putting their CVT fluid in or HRV in hopes it will help it last. Zero issues so far with Honda fluid and just north of 60,000 miles. It was changed at 36,000 and we plan on continuing with a 30,000 change interval going forward. Even if we make it 200,000 without issues I'll never by another just because I trust a manual or traditional automatic more.
     
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  3. chris

    chris

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    CVT been around a long time, but newer applications being used now are a bit wet behind the ears. fail rate , i do not think is any better or worse than more conventional items being used.
     
  4. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    That's my hope.
     
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  5. Horkn

    Horkn

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    Just don't tow anything with it, you might be ok.
     
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  6. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    Definitely will not. No hitch on it but if we do put one on it will be for a bike rack only.
     
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  7. Prospector

    Prospector

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    Old thread- I know. Been there/ done that. In 2018 I sold my last diesel. Good truck- had not spent a significant amt on it in 135k. But. In light of my perceived (and IMHO…) lack of reliability in more modern diesel engines I took a hard look at my needs… and bought a 2016 F250 gas-6.2/6R140/3.73:1. Started at 22k/ now at 134k. Flawless. Do I occasionally miss diesel torque? Sure. Is it that big a deal? Nope. I’m a numbers guy. Same truck with a diesel and an estimated $7500 price increase? Saves me $16 a month in gas/fuel. According to my uses, if I encounter NO diesel expensive repairs (…right…) it will take approximately 46 years to break even. Also the real mpg of diesel is when you are cruising . I got no better mpg with my diesels low speeding it around neighborhoods, hunting leases etc. In fact, you probably won’t notice a significant difference in the lower gears “starting “ a load moving. If I miss my diesel it is when I’m at 65mph with a significant load maintaining speed on elevation- the gasser requires more driver input. Otherwise I’m personally happy. I would not look over a 6.2 to buy an older, higher mileage 7.3… it’s iconic/ it’s a great engine. BUT. Stock against stock? The more advanced frame, drivetrain, and tranny of my truck is rated to haul and tow just as much (more) as the older F250 and will more than keep up.
     

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  8. isaaccarlson

    isaaccarlson

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    I like the older stuff because you can fix it when you need to. Everything breaks down some time, and the easier and cheaper it is to fix, the better. Inlines are super easy to work on. We put a new head gasket in my truck for less than $100 last year. It failed because the previous owner broke a head bolt 14 years prior. Can't touch that with anything new.

    I'm not in a hurry, and I don't need fancy gizmo's to get there. Diesel is for highway towing with heavy or high drag trailers. I am happy with gas, especially when it's -30 outside.
     
  9. chris

    chris

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    I do not need 30K of gadetry making a truck somewhere past 60K, even with what I have put into my diesel over 276 + miles I am still way ahead of anything new or lightly used in todays market. No matter what I still need a 3/4 ton or better truck. Sooner or later my 04 is going to bite the dust, being in the rust belt likely sooner. All of the newer stuff have nasty pricy problems that are not common to normal everyday use. 80% center around emissions and electronic failures no fault of owner. another 15% are mfg engineering faults point blank.
     
  10. Woodsnwoods

    Woodsnwoods

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    21 on the right. 24 350 Lariat Tremor with High output 6.7 on the left IMG_3100.jpeg
     
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  11. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    Do you REALLY need a 3/4 ton?

    or would a properly spec’d 1/2 ton work?

    IMG_3245.jpeg

    at 2551 lb payload, I’d be hard pressed to go back to a 3/4 ton unless it was truly a business need. And then I’d go straight to the ford F450 because of a better turning radius and brakes.
     
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  12. chris

    chris

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    I/2Ton with a 5 ton trailer full load gets a bit dicy . Then there are the brakes themselves on a 1/2t vs the 3/4 or 1 ton. same for axels. F450 are dualls unless you super single it, No experience with that conversion though. Registration here gets pricey as you move up the line. I found the 1/2t to be lacking when hauling full load, 3/4 for my needs works ok. and I have had 1 tons in the past.
     
  13. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    only time I find it gets dicey is when the trailer brakes start needing to be adjusted. And by then, it's long past where it should have been done.
     
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  14. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    All of my trailers with electric brakes got converted to self-adjusters whenever and as soon as possible. Makes a huge difference and one less variable when the chit hits the fan.
     
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  15. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    Are they as reliable as standard? I was going to put those on our camper and the place talked me out of them. He said they wear out way faster. Not sure how but I opted for manual adjust being my first trailer with brakes.
     
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  16. lukem

    lukem

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    After two of my buddies had their CP4s detonate, take the rest of the fuel sytem with it, and leave each of them with a $12K repair bill, I don't think I could buy a diesel if it didn't have a 15K+ lb trailer behind it 75% of the time.

    I still think a gas 7.3 with a 3L Whipple or big Procharger would make plenty of torque and sound awesome doing it.
     
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  17. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    This, X 1000!
    That's exactly what I used to tell our customers when they come in looking for "a turbo diesel so I can tow"...turns out most of the time it was just a camper, or horse trailer, 1-2x/year, and often not very far either.
     
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  18. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    That’s my plan too after the bearing issue last spring.
     
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  19. rdust

    rdust

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    Convert it to a CP3 and never worry about it, but I certainly get it.

    I spent 3 months this summer rebuilding my 2004 2500hd. “New” rust free cab/frame, suspension/steering, fuel lines, brake lines, power steering lines, hoses, water pump, glow plugs etc….Lots of work but worth it with price of new diesels.
    IMG_6976.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2024
  20. FarmerJ

    FarmerJ

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    I was looking at doing that to my 2500 ram and decided to just buy my F150 for close to the same amount of money.
     
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