My 044 with Dual port, HD2 and RLSK off the loop is the best combo ever. Sorry... Had to do it again. Seriously though, I listen and look at every pic you guys post. I would love to learn to do what you square filers do So every pic and post help us to better understand Keep it up.. And good call @Pallet Pete The sticky was a good idea. Lots of good info here!
Mike doesn't bother me. He will listen and admits it can be faster. It's the ones that try to say but this says that and my dad can beat up your dad that makes me quit sharing. I've spent probably 150 hours in the past 1.5 year grinding and filing chain.
If DC or Tom Fales Jr is telling me I don't know anything then I'm listening. When it's some new guy that has just bought his first file and is an expert then I'm done. That kind is unteachable
couple depth guage / raker pics with a cheap guage the saw shop sells ,this is .025 ,just file till the tip of the raker is in line with the tool ,not sure if this was shown at beginning yet ,but will show again if it was
after you file get a step in the gullet that should be removed for better chip removal ,the cutter on the left was removed already ,i use a round chainsaw file for this ,you can also use a round grinder if you have one ,after about 3 sharpening's i do the gullets myself ,this is 3rd sharpening and due ,some guys do it every time ,it is up to you couple more cutters
Got some unusual chain in the mail from Mweba yesterday. This is a 60dl Oregon 76 chain he wanted to see if I could make him a play chain out of it.. Odd stuff. Slim chassis, but short teeth too... Not sure how it will go, but here's step 1... Gullets clean and front 60% of the raker removed... Tonight I should have step 2 done. There will be another pic to follow tomorrow hopefully.
When you look down from the top ,you want the left and right to look pretty close in size also ,and top plate angles all the same angle ,this helps keeping the saw from cutting crooked ,if you are off a little,that is ok , it will still cut ,just get as close as you can by eyeball
What's with the top beak on that one chain? I clean the gullets out before filing. If I'm grinding I did it after and let the grinder take out as much as possible. I got all the way to the top of the straps when I do also. More room for chips.
I just noticed the round wheel on the silvey makes the top plate round also ,i do not inspect every cutter as i grind ,i just check the first couple and set the stops and grind away after that ,i may get some that are off some doing that ,but they still cut ok for a work chain
To add to trx's comments, on the raker depth gauge: Most folks after looking at the amount to be removed will remove the gauge before filing then use the gauge to check the new height. This protects the gauge and allows you to round the raker as you file. After determining the number of strokes need, most will then just apply the same number of strokes to each raker rather than use the gauge on each one for work chains. For race chains, there are lots of option on the shape and as you have noted in previous posts LOTS of time spent filing!!! I am really enjoying this thread!
I'm no pro and am a complete NEWB at fast chains. So I have some honest questions. When you guys do the rakers? Are you using a Dremel or some sort of grinder? Also, do you have a before and after pic of the rakers and gullets? I am enjoying this thread more and more every day.. Good stuff guys. Keep it coming. With an upcoming GTG, I would like to possibly have a nice chain.. I need to get some files first..
2-3 swipes with a flat file works for me ,i have a raker wheel for my usg grinder ,but have never tried it ,it is new in the box still ,rounding the raker tip like factory is recommended also ,instead of flat tips like my images
Just get on eBay and buy some of the "race chain" from piltz or what every his name is. Its has to be fast. No hours filling chain and getting pizzed off.
I guess I should have been more specific. I normally do as you said with my depth garage and flat file. Trying to keep the raker as close to factory as possible. I meant when the rakers are made smaller (lots of material is removed and they take on a much smaller form/race chain), but yet keep the required depth/clearance. Some of the chain Hedge has posted, had some mighty small rakers. I'd like to see what the before and after of the same Raker looks like. Do you remove more from the back, front, or a little of both, and then keep the nice little Raker with a small radius at the top? I am intrigued by the skills shown in this thread and of I could learn a small percentage of them? I would be utterly satisfied. Going to look for files on the Bay now.. I know some were suggested earlier in the thread? But do you guys have a "favorite" or what you consider the Best? I know that is just a single persons opinion. But I respect all of your opinions.