Brand new pump locked up?!

Lightweight...
Understand...have a good

 

Actually, just did two runs up to my barn in my PJ's, colder than a witch's... But splitter is down in the woods right now, means trudging thru snow and carrying a work light to see.

If I were planning ahead, I'd have towed it back up to the barn with me, when I finished cleaning up today, as it's going to be warm, rainy, and muddy this week.

 

I had a chance to check things out yesterday, and there is definitely wear on the push plate between end of cylinder rod and the wedge. What I can't tell, until I get a new bolt in there, is if the wear in the bolt holes is the same as the push plate. Since the OEM bolt was grade 5, and the wedge assembly appears to be unhardened mild steel, I'm guessing most of the wear in the push plate was matched in the bolt holes. I'll know when I get the new bolt in there, push it all snug, and see if I can slip a feeler gauge into the gap. If I can, then I'll just shim it back out with some stainless shim steel as best I can, given the way it's worn as a round spot into a large flat surface.

edit: In fact I'm thinking now that I should just shim it back out tight, even if the bolt holes are wallowed enough to prevent the loading from landing on the new bolt. I say this because things will continue to wear, and it'd be better to have new wear into disposable shims, than continuing into the wedge push plate.

I'm guessing the cylinder rod itself is quite hard, maybe 2x or greater yield strength than the steel from which the wedge is made, so probably very minimal wear on that.

 

I cut a thin "puck" to fit that same worn spot on mine...put a little gasket sealer on it and then ran the cylinder rod up tight against it to squish the sealer out, then let it sit until the next day to dry.

 

Just because atf runs at 180 or more in a car doesn't mean it's good or even ok. Atf should stay below 160. Car makers run it hotter to inflate mpg numbers. I was seeing 210+ on our toyota before adding the cooler and the fluid was burned/brown. The cooler dropped the temps to 130-140. A stacked plate cooler should flow plenty for you.

 

Race Ready Products > Long Stacked Plate Oil Coolers

 

Oh, I dunno about those, Isaac. Says right in the listing that they cause cancer in California.

 

Good thing we don't live in California then.

 

I've been looking around for oil coolers with 3/4" NPT or -12 AN fittings, since my whole return path is all 3/4", and I had believed that was recommended for the return sizing at 19 GPM. However, I'm really not finding much in the way of a low cost oil filter in 3/4" or -12 AN fittings. Got a source?

I did find some -10 AN's, which would probably do okay, if I can't find a -12.

 

If you can't find one, I'd be temped to install a tee fitting(s) so you could split the flow, most through the cooler, some through a "bypass" line...adjust the balance with a valve.

 

Hah... I was thinking the same, but to split through two coolers. I like your idea even better, though.

 

You could use an orifice like I did on my filter.

 

Not following you. Could you describe?

 

This is my hijacked thread after all...

Go back to the first page and look at the pictures. There is an explanation

 

Pulled my old pump today so I'm very close now to buying a new one. Looking at the one in your link above and this:
19 GPM Hydraulic Log Splitter 2 Stage Gear Pump, Faster replacement for 16 gpm | eBay
which I was linked to on another thread somewhere. My original one did not have that 45 inlet bend and it did have a cast body, not aluminum. And concerns there? I've processed a LOT of wood w/ this old pump and don't want to sacrifice longevity.

 

Nah, the aluminum bodied pumps will last a long time too...that's all you see on log splitters for years now.
You can probably still buy a cast pump, but you are gonna pay for it! It would be cheaper to buy 2 aluminum pumps, which would certainly last as long, or probably longer than one cast pump, and still be less $ total.
Just FYI on those elbows for the inlet...they have a locknut on them and can be turned whichever way you want it to be.

 

Next question, the 18.5 says 2.8gpm on the high side, the 19 is 3.6. Is that noticeable on the splitter?

 

You mean between the 2.8 and 3.6? Nah, you'd never notice that lil bit...they often don't fully go into the high pressure stage anyways, unless you are crushing rocks its usually a gradual shift when that internal bypass starts to open up...

 

You'll see a little difference. Run the higher gpm if you have the hp available. There are two valves in the pump. A load pin and a check ball. One opens when the shift point is reached and the other closes to isolate the high pressure from the high gpm. It is a definite change in cylinder speed and motor load when it shifts. How much hp do you have on tap?

 

The high pressure should be isolated from the high flow side as soon as the load pin shifts and the check ball closes the passage.